Having lived in the picturesque small town of Xilitla since 1947, English eccentric Edward James spent the 1960s and 1970s creating the jungle fantasy garden of Las Pozas, full of outlandish concrete statues and structures. James was a patron of the Surrealist movement (he was pals with Dalí and Magritte), and its influence is obvious here, with spiral staircases that curl up into the air, giant stone hands, a mosaic snake and “The House Destined To Be a Cinema”.
Oaxaca City remains one of Mexico’s most popular destinations, for good reason: it’s rich in folklore and culinary traditions, and features numerous fiestas, indigenous markets, fine local chocolate and a magnificent colonial centre. Oaxaca is also widely regarded as the artistic centre of Mexico, with several state-run and private galleries, craft and jewellery master classes and regular exhibitions.
With fresh seafood, gorgeous sandy beaches, the chance to swim with dolphins, a population of sea turtles and vibrant coral reefs (check out the sculptures in the Cancun Underwater Museum), the Isla Mujeres is the most enticing slice of Mexico’s “Maya Riveria”. Compared to the bigger resorts the island offers a refreshing dose of Caribbean languor, with its narrow streets lined with colourful wooden houses.
Few of Mexico’s great Maya sites are as atmospheric as Yaxchilán. This ancient city can only be approached by boat, and today it’s shrouded in jungle in an incredibly evocative setting along the river, where the eerie moans of howler monkeys echo around the ruins.
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Fantasy Mexico – a place where whitewashed red-tiled houses huddle together on the plain, giving the city an unrivalled provincial colonial charm. Though often bursting with foreign travellers, the appeal of San Cristóbal is undiminished, a melange of colonial churches, little museums and markets. It’s also a great base for visiting the nearby Tzotzil Maya village of San Juan Chamula; the two hundred-year-old church, with its floor smothered in pine needles, is one of the most captivating sights in Mexico.
This gorgeous colonial city presents an astonishing sight: upon emerging from the surrounding hills you come upon the centre quite suddenly, a riot of colonial architecture, tumbling down hills so steep that at times it seems the roof of one building is suspended from the floor of the last. There’s an old-fashioned, backwater feel to the place, reinforced by the local students’ habit of going serenading (and boozing) in black capes, on their famed callejóneadas.
Carlos Slim’s Xanadu? One of the world’s wealthiest men funded the phenomenal Museo Soumaya, designed by the Mexican architect Fernando Romero. It’s not just the revolutionary architecture that appeals – the six-storey building is smothered by 16,000 hexagonal aluminium tiles – the museum also contains over 66,000 works from Pre-Hispanic Mesoamerica to twentieth-century Mexican art and beyond, including pieces from Rodin, Dalí, Murillo and Tintoretto.
Though it might appear to be just another alluring colonial city that’s littered with Spanish language schools, opulent Cuernavaca has attracted rebels since Aztec times; more recent converts have included singer María Félix, Rita Hayworth and Malcolm Lowry, who set Under the Volcano (1947) here; hippie guru Timothy Leary came to take magic mushrooms in the 1960s. Many current residents are artists, intellectuals and writers – stay a few days and let its infectious charm work its magic.