Capital of the state that bears its name, beautiful Campeche is one of Mexico’s finest colonial cities, but draws relatively few tourists. At its heart, relatively intact, lies a historic port town still surrounded by hefty defensive walls and fortresses; within them, interspersed with the occasional grand Baroque church, are elegant eighteenth- and nineteenth-century houses painted in pastel shades and neatly restored. Nonetheless, the place, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, doesn’t feel like an outdoor museum, with appliance stores and internet cafés occupying many of the shopfronts. Around the old centre are the trappings of a modern city that is once again becoming wealthy, while the seafront, built on reclaimed land, provides a thoroughly modern vista. Though the city is far less lively than Mérida, its immaculately preserved and tranquil streets compare favourably, and campechanos live up to their reputation as some of the most gracious people in Mexico.