Fiestas in Zacatecas
Zacatecas hosts several exuberant fiestas – here are some of the best:
Festival Cultural Zacatecas (March/April). For two weeks around Semana Santa the city celebrates this enormous arts festival, with daily events all over town including everything from high-quality Mexican rock acts and even a few foreign bands to folkloric dance, opera and ballet. Most events are free.
Festival Zacatecas del Folclor International (late July–early Aug). Mexico’s top international folk festival with around fifty nationalities represented, mostly performing in the plazas around the centre.
La Morisma de Bracho (weekend closest to Aug 27). Festival with up to ten thousand people engaging in mock battles between Moors and Christians, acted out on the Cerro de la Bufa.
Feria Nacional de Zacatecas (Sept, first two weeks). Zacatecas’ principal fiesta features bullfights and plenty of traditional carousing. The activity happens at La Feria, 3km south towards Guadalupe.
Cerro de la Bufa
Zacatecas is dominated by the Cerro de la Bufa (2612m), with its extraordinary rock cockscomb crowning the ridge some 237m above the Plaza de Armas; at night it’s illuminated, with a giant cross on top. A modern Swiss cable car connects the summit with the slopes of the Cerro del Grillo, opposite – an exhilarating ride straight over the heart of the old town.
Another thrilling attraction on the Cerro de la Bufa is Tirolesa 840, a zip line that whips you across a gorge on the north side of the mountain (around 1km total).
Around Zacatecas
It’s well worth basing yourself in Zacatecas to explore the immediate surroundings, not least the silverware at the Centro Platero de Zacatecas, the sumptuously decorated church in Guadalupe, the ruins of the great desert fortress at Quemada and the picturesque town of Jerez, a pleasant day-trip anytime but essential for the cowboy festival on Easter Saturday.
Legends of Quemada
Though we may never know for sure, Huichol legend seems to support the theory that La Quemada was built by a local ruling class. There was an evil priest, the story runs, who lived on a rock surrounded by walls and covered with buildings, with eagles and jaguars under his command to oppress the population. The people appealed to their gods, who destroyed the priest and his followers with “great heat”, warning the people not to go near the rock again. Quemada was probably destroyed by fire around 1300 AD and was never reoccupied; even today, the Huichol, in their annual pilgrimage from the Sierra Madre to collect peyote around Real de Catorce to the east, take a long detour to bypass this area.