On the west side of the Baixa, the area known as Chiado – the nom de plume of the poet António Ribeiro and pronounced she-ah-doo – was Lisbon’s original upmarket shopping area. Many of its former stores were destroyed by a fire in 1988, although the original belle époque atmosphere has since been superbly re-created under the direction of eminent Portuguese architect Álvaro Siza Vieira.

Chiado remains a smart shopping district, famed for its cafés especially along Rua Garrett. Of these, A Brasileira, Rua Garrett 120, is the most famous, once frequented by Lisbon’s literary set and now usually mobbed by tourists.

 

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