In almost any other country, the forested dales and uplands that fill out much of central Norway between Oslo and the western fjords would be prime attractions in their own right, but here in Norway they are overshadowed by the mountains and deep black-blue fjords of the north and west. One result is that the towns and villages hereabouts lack the concentration of tourist facilities found in the more popular areas, though the Norwegians themselves come here in their droves to savour the summer and explore the countryside from their mountain huts and second homes. Setting aside the E6 (see Eidsvoll-bygningen), there are three main highways between Oslo and the western fjords – the E16, Highway 7 and the E134: whichever one you choose, you’ll encounter spectacular scenery, from wide sweeping valleys and plunging waterfalls to bare and bleak mountain passes, but if it’s mainly speed you’re after plump for the E16.

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