The capital of Japan for more than a thousand years, Kyoto (äșŹéœ) is endowed with an almost overwhelming legacy of ancient Buddhist temples, majestic palaces and gardens of every size and description, not to mention some of the countryâs most important works of art, its richest culture and most refined cuisine. For many people the very name Kyoto conjures up the classic image of Japan: streets of traditional wooden houses, the click-clack of geta (traditional wooden sandals) on the paving stones, geisha passing in a flourish of brightly coloured silks and temple pagodas surrounded by cherry blossom trees.
- What to see in Kyoto
- Accommodation in Kyoto
- Dance and theatre in Kyoto
- Kyoto drinking and nightlife
- Eating in Kyoto
- Experiencing Kyoto culture
- Getting around Tokyo by Jinrikisha
- Shopping in Kyoto
- Katsura Rikyƫ
- Living dolls
- Machiya
- Major Kyoto festivals and annual events
- Manga in Kyoto
- NijĆ-jĆ and NijĆ-jinâya
- RyĆan-ji
- SaihĆ-ji
- Shƫgaku-in Rikyƫ
- Temple and shrine flea markets
- TĆei Film Studio Park
- Around Kyoto
What to see in Kyoto
Kyoto is often romanticized as Japanâs ancient heart, but first impressions can be mixed. Decades of unchecked urban development and a sprawling industrial sector have left their mark. That said, efforts to preserve Kyotoâs visual character â like height restrictions on new buildings and a ban on rooftop advertising â show that the city is taking steps to protect its heritage.
Despite modern changes, Kyoto remains famously exclusive, its centuries-old cultural sophistication not easily accessible to outsiders. But for those willing to explore, the rewards are immense.
With its vast cultural and historical treasures, deciding how long to stay in Kyoto can be tricky. A couple of days will give you a good feel for the city, but longer allows for deeper exploration. Start in Higashiyama, where the walk from Kiyomizu-dera to Ginkaku-ji is lined with stunning temples, gardens, and museums. In the northwest, take in the Zen gardens of Daitoku-ji and RyĆan-ji, followed by the extravagant Golden Pavilion (Kinkaku-ji). Central Kyotoâs must-sees include NijĆ-jĆ, a lavish 17th-century palace, and the imperial villas of ShĆ«gaku-in RikyĆ« and Katsura RikyĆ«.
Beyond the temples, Kyotoâs old merchant quarters hold plenty of charm. The streets behind ShijĆ-dĆri and the Gion district are packed with traditional craft shops, selling everything from handmade bamboo blinds to geisha hair accessories. The cityâs famed ryokan (traditional inns) also offer a glimpse into old Kyotoâs elegance.
To truly connect with Kyotoâs soul, step away from the tourist hotspots and into the quiet backstreets. Seek out hidden gardens, explore centuries-old machiya houses, and pop into tucked-away craft shops. But Kyoto isnât all history â modern influences are everywhere, from the Kyoto International Museum of Manga to the cityâs growing scene of designer boutiques and stylish cafĂ©s.
As for timing, spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit, though also the busiest. April sees the cherry blossoms in full bloom, while Octoberâs crisp, dry weather sets the cityâs maple trees ablaze in fiery reds.
Going to Kyoto? Prepare for your trip with our guide to the best places to stay in Kyoto.
Brief history of Kyoto
Kyoto became the imperial capital in the late eighth century when Emperor Kammu relocated the court from Nara. His first choice was Nagaoka, southwest of todayâs Kyoto, but a few inauspicious events led the emperor to move again in 794 AD. This time he settled on what was to be known as Heian-kyĆ, âCapital of Peace and Tranquillityâ. Like Nara, the city was modelled on the Chinese Tang-dynasty capital Changâan (todayâs Xiâan), with a symmetrical northâsouth axis. By the late ninth century Heian-kyĆ was overflowing onto the eastern hills and soon had an estimated population of 500,000. In 894, imperial missions to China ceased and earlier borrowings from Chinese culture began to develop into distinct Japanese forms.
The cityâs history from this point is something of a rollercoaster ride. In the late twelfth century a fire practically destroyed the whole place, but two centuries later the Ashikaga shoguns built some of the cityâs finest monuments, among them the Golden and Silver Pavilions (Kinkaku-ji and Ginkaku-ji). Many of the great Zen temples were established at this time and the arts reached new levels of sophistication. Once again, however, almost everything was lost during the Ćnin Wars (1467â78).
Kyotoâs golden era
Kyotoâs knight in shining armour was Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who came to power in 1582 and sponsored a vast rebuilding programme. The Momoyama period, as itâs now known, was a golden era of artistic and architectural ostentation, epitomized by Kyotoâs famous KanĆ school of artists, who decorated the temples and palaces with sumptuous gilded screens. Even when Tokugawa Ieyasu moved the seat of government to Edo (now Tokyo) in 1603, Kyoto remained the imperial capital and stood its ground as the nationâs foremost cultural centre.
Meiji modernization
In 1788 another huge conflagration swept through the city, but worse was to come; in 1869 the new Emperor Meiji moved the court to Tokyo. Kyoto went into shock and the economy foundered â but not for long. In the 1890s a canal was built from Biwa-ko to the city, and Kyoto, like the rest of Japan, embarked on a process of industrialization. However, the city narrowly escaped devastation at the end of World War II, when it was considered a potential target for the atom bomb. Kyoto was famously spared by American Defence Secretary Henry Stimson, who recognized the cityâs supreme architectural and historical importance.
Preserving Kyotoâs heritage
Sadly, Kyotoâs own citizens were not so mindful and post-World War II many of the cityâs old buildings were sold for their land value and replaced by concrete structures or car parks. Despite continued modernization, however, a more enthusiastic approach to strengthening the cityâs traditional heritage is now being adopted by its residents, not least in efforts towards attracting foreign visitors. In particular, many younger Japanese are becoming interested in not only preserving but also developing this historical legacy, evidenced by the growing number of businesses set in traditional townhouses, or machiya.
Accommodation in Kyoto
Kyotoâs accommodation options range from basic guesthouses, youth hostels and temple lodgings (shukubĆ) to luxurious international hotels and top-class ryokan. One night in a full-blown Kyoto ryokan, enjoying the worldâs most meticulous service, is an experience not to be missed. The ongoing recession has made many establishments that were previously difficult to access more affordable and welcoming to international guests. Recently, a number of old Kyoto houses (machiya) have been developed into guesthouses, offering visitors the chance to experience traditional Kyoto life. Itâs essential to make reservations at these places as far in advance as possible, but all accommodation in Kyoto gets pretty busy during spring and autumn, at holiday weekends and around the major festivals; room rates may rise considerably during these times.
Dance and theatre in Kyoto
Kyoto is famous for its traditional geisha dance shows. Performances of kabuki and nĆ plays are more sporadic but worth attending if you happen to be in town when they are on.
Geisha Odori
Geisha (or geiko, as they are known locally) and maiko (trainee geisha) from each of the cityâs former pleasure quarters (see KĆdai-ji) have been putting on Odori (dance performances) during spring and autumn since the late nineteenth century, though the music and choreography are much older. By turns demure and coquettish, they glide round the stage in the most gorgeous kimono, straight out of an Edo-period woodblock print of Japanâs seductive âfloating worldâ. If youâre in Kyoto during these seasonal dances, itâs well worth going along. Performances take place several times a day, so itâs usually possible to get hold of tickets; you can buy them from the theatre box offices and major hotels. At all of the Odori, you can also buy tickets that combine the show with a tea ceremony conducted by geisha and maiko, which is well worth the extra cost („3800â6000, depending on the district). Make sure you get there early enough to enjoy your bowl of macha (powdered green tea).
The annual dance performances in the geisha districts kick off with the Miyako Odori (April 1â30) performed by the geisha and maiko of Gion. This is the most prestigious and well known of the Odori, mainly because it is the oldest, having started in 1872. The dances are based on a seasonal theme and have lavish sets and costumes. Live musicians playing shamisen, flutes and drums, as well as singers, perform in alcoves at each side of the stage. Miyako Odori is held at Gion KĆbu KaburenjĆ.
Also at this time is Kyo Odori, held in the Miyagawa-chĆ district, south of Gion. This is a smaller, more intimate production than Miyako Odori, though equally as opulent. The ladies of PontochĆ stage their Kamo-gawa Odori once a year (May 1â24) in PontochĆ KaburenjĆ, at the north end of PontochĆ-dĆri â Jean Cocteau and Charlie Chaplin were both fans.
Autumn brings a whole flurry of activity, though the dances are more like recitals, and not as extravagant as the spring dances. The Onshukai dances are held during the first week in October at the Gion Kaikan theatre, near Yasaka-jinja closely followed by Kotobukikai (around Oct 8â12) in northwest Kyotoâs Kitano Kami-shichiken KaburenjĆ and Mizuekai (mid-Oct) at the Miyagawa-chĆ KaburenjĆ. Finally, the Gion Odori, performed by the maiko and geisha of the smaller Gion Higashi district, wraps things up in early November (Nov 1â10, at the Gion Kaikan theatre near Yasaka-jinja.
If your visit doesnât coincide with any of these, you can see maiko dancing, as well as a sampler of other traditional performance arts, from March to November at Gion Corner, held at Gion KĆbu KaburenjĆ. As well as dances by maiko, there are short extracts from court dances, a puppet play (bunraku), kyĆgen theatre, and demonstrations of the tea ceremony and flower arranging (ikebana). English-language guided commentary is available to rent at the entrance. Alternatively, the Gion Hatanaka Ryokan holds Kyoto Cuisine and Maiko Evening events which non-guests are welcome to attend. This is a great chance to see maiko performing at close range and take photos.
Kabuki and nĆ
Colourful and dramatic, kabuki theatre is said to have originated in Kyoto. Unfortunately, performances these days are fairly sporadic, but in December thereâs a major kabuki-fest at Gionâs eye-catching Minami-za theatre . During this kaomise, or âface-showingâ (Dec 1â25), big-name actors give snippets from their most successful roles.
Kyoto drinking and nightlife
Kyoto isnât all about high culture. After youâve finished tramping the streets, there are plenty of tea houses, coffee shops and cosy bars where you can kick back and quench your thirst. And, if your aching feet can stand it, Kyotoâs late-night scene offers a fair range of clubs, discos and live music venues. It may not compete with the likes of Ćsaka and Tokyo, but you should be able to find somewhere to party until the wee hours. The prime entertainment districts are Kiyamachi and Gion, both of which are stuffed with bars and clubs. But be warned: even fairly innocuous-looking establishments can be astronomically expensive (many have a âseatingâ fee of over „1000), so check first to make sure you know exactly what youâre letting yourself in for. Some of the more upmarket establishments used to require an introduction by a regular customer, before you could even set foot inside, but the ongoing recession has loosened the formalities to some extent.
Eating in Kyoto
Itâs worth treating yourself to a meal in a traditional Kyo-ryĆri (Kyoto cuisine) restaurant, such as kaiseki (a multi-course banquet of seasonal delicacies), shĆjin-ryĆri (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) or yĆ«dĆfu (simmered tofu). Nishin soba, a big bowl of soba noodles with a part-dried piece of herring on top, and saba-zushi, made with mackerel, are two of the more everyday Kyoto dishes. Reservations are nearly always essential at top-end kaiseki restaurants in the evening; elsewhere itâs not a bad idea to book ahead at weekends and during peak holiday times.
The teahouses of Kyoto
The world of tea tends to have a reputation for rigidity and rules, but fortunately there are now some innovative and modern ways in which to experience this quintessential Japanese drink. Whether you want just a relaxing cuppa or a full-blown tea ceremony, both are easily accessible.
You can start by going straight to the heart of Kyoto tea commerce, at the historic Ippodo on Teramachi, which has been in business since 1717. The shop sells all grades of Japanese green teas, locally grown in Uji. However, just past the counter is the Kaboku Tearoom, a wonderful place to sample different types and grades of green tea. The tearoom has a hushed atmosphere but the staff are friendly and happy to guide you through the extensive menu. If you are keen to experience a tea ceremony, head to Ran Hotei on the SanjĆ-Horikawa shopping arcade, a tea salon decorated in the Taisho-Art Deco style. If you book in advance itâs possible to have a 90-minute tea ceremony lesson in the tatami tearoom with the owner, a Canadian-born tea master.
Roaring into the internet age is the Iyemon Salon, on SanjĆ-dĆri, just west of Karasuma, possibly Kyotoâs trendiest teahouse and a complete contrast to the meditative atmosphere of a tea ceremony. Itâs large and bustling, with a free internet cafĂ©, bookshop, tea counter and a kitchen serving tea-inspired cuisine. Just across the road is Somushi, an artfully rustic Korean tea house thatâs an incredibly calm space to try a variety of medicinal teas, such as ginseng and jujube (red dates), as well as healthy vegetarian Korean dishes. In eastern Kyoto, donât miss RakushĆ, a charming old teashop between Kiyomizu-dera and Yasaka-jinja. Enjoy a bowl of macha and warabi mochi (jelly-like cakes rolled in sweet soybean flour while gazing out over the pond of enormous carp. East of the Heian-jingu is the Kyoto Nama Chocolat Organic Tea House, in an elegant old house with a rambling garden. They serve a variety of teas and coffee, as well as their own brand of delectable fresh soft chocolate, which they make on the premises.
Experiencing Kyoto culture
Itâs possible to learn about various traditional crafts and Kyoto culture at venues around the city. For yĆ«zen dyeing head to the Kodai YĆ«zen-en gallery (daily 9amâ5pm; „500), located on Takatsuji-dĆri, southwest of the Horikawa ShijĆ junction. Ask to see their introductory video in English, first and then, if youâre inspired, you can try yĆ«zen hand-dyeing for yourself, on a handkerchief or table centrepiece (from „1600). Two blocks west of the Nishijin Textile Centre, on Nakasuji-dĆri, you can learn about another hand-dyeing technique at the lovely old Aizen-kĆbĆ workshop run by the Utsuki family (MonâFri 10amâ5.30pm, Sat & Sun 9amâ4pm; free; reservation essential at weekends)). Aizen-kĆbĆâs owner, Kenichi Utsuki, gives explanations in English of the intricate and time-consuming techniques involved in indigo hand-dyeing. The cloth is dyed with natural indigo and then sun-dried to give it a glorious, rich shade of blue or green. The Kyoto Handicraft Centre offers demonstration classes for beginners in cloisonnĂ© (enamel-work) and woodblock printing („1890 for 1hr; book at the ground-floor information desk 1â4pm). The Uzuki Cooking School in northeastern Kyoto holds classes in seasonal Kyoto cuisine, mostly on weekday afternoons. The enthusiastic English-speaking instructor, Emi Hirayama, brings you into her own kitchen and takes you through the steps of creating a delicious four-course meal („4000/person). Finally, WAK Japan („3500â5500/person) offers 55-minute courses with English-speaking female teachers in tea ceremony, kimono, calligraphy, flower arrangement and musical instruments at their machiya school near the Imperial Palace. More expensive âhome visitâ lessons are also available (from „10,500).
Getting around Tokyo by Jinrikisha
Jinrikisha (äșșćè»), which means âman-powered vehicleâ, were a common form of transportation in Kyoto from the 1880s until the early twentieth century, when it became more fashionable to use bicycles, automobiles and street trams. A local company is now producing two-seater Meiji-period-style jinrikisha, and has revived this more environmentally friendly form of transportation for tourists. Strapping, sun-tanned lads, and occasionally a few young women, pull jinrikisha around Kyotoâs main tourist areas. Itâs a fun way to see the sites and to discover a few hidden spots in any season â they all have hoods to protect passengers from sun and rain. There are jinrikisha stations in front of Heian-jingu, near Nanzen-ji and at Arashiyama on the northwest side of Togetsu-kyo bridge, covering three routes: Kiyomizu-dera to Yasaka-jinja, Heian-jingĆ« to Ginkaku-ji and around Arashiyama. Tours last from ten minutes („2000 for one, „3000 for two) to an hour („9000 for one, „15,000 for two), depending on the route and whether you want to stop and take photos. Some of the jinrikisha pullers speak English and will be able to give you a commentary on the sights. Jinrikisha are available every day from 10am until sunset.
Shopping in Kyoto
Kyotoâs main shopping district is focused around the junction of ShijĆ-dĆri and Kawaramachi-dĆri, and spreads north of ShijĆ along the Teramachi and ShinkyĆgoku covered arcades. Youâll find the big-name department stores, notably Takashimaya, HankyĆ« and Daimaru, all on ShijĆ. Souvenir shops, smart boutiques and even a few traditional craft shops are mostly situated on SanjĆ-dĆri, just west of the river. In recent years, two trendy shopping complexes have opened on Karasuma-dĆri. Shinpuhkan, just south of Ćike, consists of four levels of boutiques, restaurants and variety goods shops, built around an inner courtyard. Cocon Karasuma, south of ShijĆ, has designer furniture and contemporary Japanese craft shops, as well as restaurants and cafĂ©s. The station area is home to the huge Isetan department store and a revamped underground shopping mall, Porta, under the northern bus terminal.
East Kyoto is best known for its wealth of shops around Kiyomizu-dera, which sell the local pottery, while nearby Sannen-zaka hosts a lovely parade of traditional craft shops. Further north, Gionâs Shinmonzen-dĆri specializes in antiques â prices are predictably high, but itâs a good area to browse.
Katsura Rikyƫ
In the southwest corner of Kyoto are two magnificent gardens, though in both cases admission is by appointment only. The more accessible garden belongs to Katsura RikyĆ« (æĄéąćźź), a former imperial palace; applications to visit should be made through the Imperial Household Agency.
Katsura palace, unfortunately not open to the public, was built in the early seventeenth century as a residence for the imperial Prince Toshihito, and then expanded by his son, Toshitada, in the 1650s. Toshihito was a highly cultured man, who filled his villa and garden with references to The Tale of Genji and other literary classics, while also creating what is considered to be Japanâs first stroll-garden. As the name suggests, these gardens were to be enjoyed on foot â rather than from a boat or from a fixed viewpoint â and designed to look ânaturalâ. In fact they were planned in minute detail so that scenes unfold in a particular order as the viewer progresses. Focused on a large, indented lake, the Katsura garden is famed for its variety of footpaths and stone pavings, and for its stone lanterns, all of which helped create the desired mood of relaxation. Several tea pavilions occupy prime spots around the lake, the most attractive of which is Shokin-tei, but perhaps the most interesting aspect of the garden is the sheer ingenuity of the designer â Toshihito managed to wrestle a splendidly harmonious, seemingly spacious garden out of an unexciting bit of floodplain.
Living dolls
Arthur Goldenâs Memoirs of a Geisha and similar books have sparked a curiosity in the Western world about the centuries-old institution of the geisha. Often mistakenly considered to be high-class prostitutes, geisha (which means âpractitioner of the artsâ) are in fact refined women who entertain affluent men with their various accomplishments, such as singing, dancing, conversation and playing a traditional instrument such as a shamisen (three-string banjo). English conversation skills are also becoming important, as a result of the international attention generated by the Hollywood film of Memoirs of a Geisha, which has brought overseas visitors into the teahouses of the hanamachi (âflower townsâ), where geisha live and work.
It takes five years for an apprentice geisha â known as maiko â to master her art, training with the same focus and dedication of an Olympic athlete in the various arts and living according to a strict code of dress and deportment, almost like living dolls. The world of the geisha is shrinking, however: from a pre-World War II peak of eighty thousand there are now reckoned to be no more than a few thousand geisha left, the majority concentrated in Kyoto, the centre of the tradition. Though few fifteen-year-olds are tempted to sign up as apprentices, the internet is beginning to change this â some geisha houses have established websites to recruit apprentices, with successful results. Geisha have also started blogging; one Kyoto maiko has even translated her musings on life in a hanamachi into English.
Itâs also becoming more common to be able to meet and talk with geisha and maiko in person. Many hotels and ryokan now offer exclusive dinner shows (see Major Kyoto festivals and annual events), where it is possible to experience a little of the elegant yet fun entertainment that has until recently been the exclusive playground of wealthy male customers. Donât be fooled by daylight groups of âgeishaâ in Kyoto tourist spots: they are likely to be visitors who have paid for the chance to don the distinctive white make-up, lacquered hairdos and fabulously expensive kimono that constitute the epitome of geisha beauty.
Machiya
Kyotoâs traditional townhouses, machiya, were built in a unique architectural style and remain an enduring symbol of the cityâs cultural heritage. These long, wooden houses are made up of a succession of rooms, connected by a single corridor, sometimes stretching as far back as 100m from the front. Their design is a result of the taxes that were levied on buildings during the Edo period according to the size of their street frontage. Machiya were generally built by merchants, encompassing a front shop space, living quarters in the middle and a warehouse at the rear. A courtyard garden was also included to aid the flow of light and air through the centre. Their long, thin shape lead to their colloquial name, unagi no nedoko, or âbedroom of eelsâ.
Machiya were built almost entirely out of wood, which means that because of fire and earthquakes few that remain today are more than a century old. Some of the best examples are protected by law, but this has not stopped others being demolished at an alarming rate (some figures estimate by more than ten percent a year) since the end of World War II as land values increased and modern development was encouraged. However, you can still walk along Sannen-zaka, Shinbashi or through the Nishijin weaving district in Western Kyoto and find some almost complete rows of these beautiful old houses, each dark facade showing subtle variations on the same overall design. Note the distinctive gutter-guards made of curved bamboo, and the narrow-slatted ground-floor windows, which keep out both the summer heat and prying eyes.
Encouragingly, though they are still being demolished, many machiya now seem to be experiencing a period of revitalization, having been remodelled as restaurants, guesthouses, boutiques and galleries, particularly in the central area north of ShijĆ and west of Kawaramachi.
Major Kyoto festivals and annual events
Thanks to its central role in Japanese history, Kyoto is home to a number of important festivals; the major celebrations are listed below. The cherry-blossom season hits Kyoto in early April â famous viewing spots include the Imperial Park, Yasaka-jinja and Arashiyama â while early November brings dramatic autumn colours. Many temples hold special openings in October and November to air their inner rooms during the fine, dry weather. This is a marvellous opportunity to see paintings, statues and other treasures not normally on public display; details are available in the free Kyoto Visitorsâ Guide. Kyoto gets pretty busy during major festivals and national holidays, especially Golden Week (April 29âMay 5).
Febuary 2â4 Setsubun
Annual bean-throwing festival celebrated at shrines throughout the city. At Yasaka-jinja, âogresâ scatter beans and pray for good harvests, while Heian-jingĆ« hosts performances of traditional kyĆgen theatre on Feb 3.
April 1â30 Miyako Odori
Performances of traditional geisha dances in Gion.
April 7â22 Kyo Odori
Performances by the geisha and maiko of the MiyagawachĆ district.
May 15 Aoi Matsuri
The âHollyhock Festivalâ dates back to the days when this plant was believed to ward off earthquakes and thunder. Now itâs an occasion for a gorgeous, yet slow, procession of people dressed in Heian-period costume (794â1185). They accompany the imperial messenger and an ox cart decked in hollyhock leaves from the Imperial Palace to the Shimo-gamo and Kami-gamo shrines, in north Kyoto.
May 1â24 Kamo-gawa Odori
Performances of traditional dances by geisha in PontochĆ.
June 1â2 Takigi NĆ
Nà plays performed by torchlight at Heian-jingë.
July 17 Gion Matsuri
One of Kyotoâs great festivals dates back to Heian times, when ceremonies were held to drive away epidemics of the plague. The festivities focus on Yasaka-jinja and culminate on July 17 (though there are related events throughout the whole of the month), with a grand parade through central Kyoto of tall, pointy yama-boko floats, richly decorated with local Nishijin silk. Night festivals are held three days prior to the parade, when the floats are lit with lanterns. Some can be viewed inside for a few hundred yen.
August 16 Daimonji Gozan Okuribi
Five huge bonfires etch kanji characters on five hills around Kyoto; the most famous is the character for dai (big) on Daimonji-yama, northeast of the city. The practice originated from lighting fires after Obon.
October 22 Jidai Matsuri
This âFestival of the Agesâ was introduced in 1895 to mark Kyotoâs 1100th anniversary. More than two thousand people, wearing costumes representing all the intervening historical periods, parade from the Imperial Palace to Heian-jingĆ«.
October 22 Kurama-no-Himatsuri
After the Jidai parade, hop on a train north to see Kuramaâs more boisterous Fire Festival. Villagers light bonfires outside their houses and local lads carry giant, flaming torches (the biggest weighing up to 100kg) to the shrine. Events climax around 8pm with a mad dash up the steps with a mikoshi, after which thereâs heavy-duty drinking, drumming and chanting till dawn. To get there, take the Eizan line from Kyotoâs Demachiyanagi Station (30min); itâs best to arrive early and leave around 10pm unless you want to see it through.
December 1â25 Kabuki Kaomise
Grand kabuki festival.
December 31 Okera Mairi
The best place to see in the New Year is at Gionâs Yasaka-jinja. Apart from the normal festivities (see Festival fun), locals come here to light a flame from the sacred fire, with which to rekindle their hearths back home. As well as general good luck, this supposedly prevents illness in the coming year.
Manga in Kyoto
The excellent Kyoto International Manga Museum is the worldâs first museum entirely devoted to Japanese comics. A joint project between Kyoto City and Seika University, itâs housed in an old elementary school, which has been remodelled to accommodate the huge, all-encompassing collection of manga, as well as provide plenty of space for art workshops (held at weekends) to teach the techniques of manga, as well as international conferences to discuss research. The great thing about the museum is that most of the manga can be taken outside and read on the lawn, and there is also a small international section with some English-language manga.
At Kyoto station donât miss Tezuka Osamu World which continuously shows anime by comic-book genius Tezuka, plus that of other artists, in their smallish but comfortable theatre. If you donât have time to visit the museum devoted to Tezuka at Takarazuka, near Ćsaka, this is a good place to see some of his work. The shop next door is filled with a surprisingly tasteful array of AstroBoy and other Tezuka-associated character goods.
NijĆ-jĆ and NijĆ-jinâya
One kilometre southwest of the Imperial Park, the swaggering opulence of NijĆ-jĆ (äșæĄć) provides a complete contrast to imperial understatement. Built as the Kyoto residence of Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu (1603â16), the castleâs double moats, massive walls and watchtowers demonstrate the supreme confidence of his new, Tokyo-based military government. Inside, the finest artists of the day filled the palace with sumptuous gilded screens and carvings, the epitome of Momoyama style, leaving the increasingly impoverished emperor in no doubt as to where power really lay. The castle took 23 years to complete, paid for by local daimyĆ, but NijĆ-jĆ was never used in defence and was rarely visited by a shogun after the mid-1600s.
The main entrance to NijĆ-jĆ is the East Gate on Horikawa-dĆri, near the NijĆ-jĆ-mae subway station and bus stop. After entering here head to the Ninomaru Palace, whose five buildings face onto a lake-garden and run in a staggered line connected by covered corridors. Each room is lavishly decorated with screen paintings by the brilliant KanĆ school of artists, notably KanĆ TanyĆ« and Naonobu.
Ieyasu built NijĆ-jĆ in the grounds of the original Heian-era Imperial Palace, of which only a tiny fragment today remains â a pond-garden, Shinsen-en â trapped between two roads immediately south of the castle walls. Walk through the garden, continuing south down Ćmiya-dĆri, to find the mysterious NijĆ-jinâya (äșæĄéŁć±) behind a fence on the right-hand side. It was built in the early seventeenth century as an inn for feudal lords who came to pay homage to the emperor. As these were days of intrigue and high skulduggery, it is riddled with trap doors, false walls and ceilings, ânightingaleâ floors (floors that squeak when trodden on), escape hatches, disguised staircases and confusing dead ends to trap intruders. Since this is a private house, tours are strictly by appointment only and must be booked by phone, in Japanese, a day before; they also ask that non-Japanese-speakers bring an interpreter.
RyĆan-ji
While Kinkaku-ji is all about displays of wealth and power, the dry garden of RyĆan-ji (éŸćźćŻș) hides infinite truths within its riddle of rocks and sand. Thought to date back to the late fifteenth century, and said by some to be the work of SĆami, the most famous artist, landscape gardener and tea ceremony master of the time, it was largely unknown until the 1930s. Now itâs probably Japanâs most famous garden, which means youâre unlikely to be able to appreciate the Zen experience thanks to intrusive loud-speaker announcements and almost constant crowds, though very early morning tends to be better.
The garden consists of a long, walled rectangle of off-white gravel, in which fifteen stones of various sizes are arranged in five groups, some rising up from the raked sand and others almost completely lost. In fact, the stones are placed so that wherever you stand one of them is always hidden from view. The only colour is provided by electric-green patches of moss around some stones, making this the simplest and most abstract of all Japanâs Zen gardens. Itâs thought that the layout is a kĆan, or riddle, set by Zen masters to test their students, and thereâs endless debate about its âmeaningâ. Popular theories range from tigers crossing a river to islands floating in a sea of infinity. Fortunately, itâs possible to enjoy the gardenâs perfect harmony and in-built tension without worrying too much about the meaning. Walk round the veranda of the main hall and youâll find a stone water basin inscribed with a helpful thought from the Zen tradition: âI learn only to be contentedâ.
Leaving the main hall, itâs definitely worth strolling round RyĆan-jiâs refreshingly quiet lake-garden. This dates back to the twelfth century, when a noble of the Fujiwara clan built his villa here, before the estate was donated to the Rinzai Buddhist sect in the fifteenth century.
SaihĆ-ji
Three kilometres northwest of Katsura RikyĆ«, in a narrow, tree-filled valley, youâll find the voluptuous and tranquil moss gardens of SaihĆ-ji (è„żèłćŻș), also known as Koke-dera (èćŻș; the âMoss Templeâ). If youâve got time to spare after the major sights, this temple is well worth visiting, though you have to make an application. All visitors are required to attend a short Zen service during which youâll chant a sutra, trace the sutraâs characters in sumi-e ink and finally write your name, address and âwishâ before placing the paper in front of the altar. After that youâre free to explore the garden at your leisure.
Like KĆryĆ«-ji, the temple apparently started life in the seventh century as another of Prince ShĆtokuâs villas. Soon after, JĆdo Buddhists adopted the site for one of their âparadise gardensâ, after which the gifted Zen monk, MusĆ Kokushi, was invited to take over the temple in 1338. The present layout dates mostly from his time, though the lakeside pavilion â the inspiration for Kinkaku-ji â and nearly all SaihĆ-jiâs other buildings burnt down during the Ćnin Wars (1467â77). In fact, given the templeâs history of fire, flooding and periods of neglect, it seems unlikely that todayâs garden bears much resemblance to MusĆâs. SaihĆ-ji was in complete ruins by the eighteenth century and some sources even attribute the famous mosses to accident, arguing that they spread naturally as the garden reverted to damp, shady woodland.
Whatever their origin, the swathes of soft, dappled moss â some 120 varieties in all â are a magical sight, especially after the rains of May and June, when the greens take on an extra intensity.
Shƫgaku-in Rikyƫ
In the far northeast of Kyoto, the foothills of Hiei-zan provide a superb setting for ShĆ«gaku-in RikyĆ« (äżźćŠéąéąćźź), one of Japanâs finest examples of garden design using âborrowed sceneryâ; a technique which incorporates the existing landscape to give the impression of a much larger space.
Emperor Go-mizunoâo, who reigned between 1611 and 1629, built ShĆ«gaku-in RikyĆ« in the late 1650s as a pleasure garden rather than a residence. Just 15 years old when he ascended the throne, the artistic and highly cultured Go-mizunoâo fiercely resented the new shogunateâs constant meddling in imperial affairs â not least being forced to marry the shogunâs daughter. After Go-mizunoâo abdicated in 1630, however, the shogun encouraged him to establish an imperial villa. He eventually settled on the site of a ruined temple, ShĆ«gaku-in, and set about designing a series of gardens, which survived more than a century of neglect before the government rescued them in the 1820s. Though some of the original pavilions have been lost, Go-mizunoâoâs overall design remains â a delightfully naturalistic garden that blends seamlessly into the wooded hills.
In fact, ShĆ«gaku-in RikyĆ« is made up of three separate gardens, each in their own enclosure among the terraced rice-fields. Of these, the top lake-garden is the star attraction. Climbing up the path towards the upper villa, you pass between tall, clipped hedges before suddenly emerging at the compoundâs highest point. An airy pavilion, Rin-un-Tei, occupies the little promontory, with views over the lake, the forested, rolling hills in the middle distance and the mountains beyond. Walking back down through the garden, the grand vistas continue with every twist and turn of the path, passing the intricate Chitose bridge, intimate tea-ceremony pavilions and rustic boathouses.
Temple and shrine flea markets
If youâre in Kyoto towards the end of the month, donât miss the two big flea markets. On the 21st, KĆbĆ-san (in honour of the founder) is held at TĆ-ji temple, and on the 25th, Tenjin-san (in honour of the enshrined deity) is held at Kitano TenmangĆ«, a large shrine in northwest Kyoto (entrance on Imadegawa-dĆri). Both kick off before 7am and itâs worth getting there early if youâre looking for special treasures. Thereâs a fantastic carnival atmosphere at these markets, where stalls sell everything from used kimono to dried fruit and manga. TĆ-ji has an antiques market on the first Sunday of every month.
A monthly market is also held at Chion-ji on the 15th of every month (16th if raining), which focuses more on crafts and other handmade goods. Chion-ji sits on the corner of Imadegawa-dĆri and HigashiĆji-dĆri, close to Kyoto University.
TĆei Film Studio Park
At TĆei Uzumasa Eiga-mura (æ±æ ć€Șç§Šæ ç»æ), one of Japanâs major film companies opens its sets to the public. At the entrance is Padios, an amusement arcade aimed at children, with 3D roller-coaster rides, games and souvenir shops. The studios behind, where directors such as Kurosawa Akira filmed their classics, hold more general appeal and are worth a visit. One of the indoor studios is usually in action, nowadays mostly making historical TV dramas but also the occasional film (most recently, the 2009 historical drama Hiten no Shiro â âThe Castle of Heavenly Flamesâ) while the outdoor sets â an Edo-period street, thatched farms, Meiji-era Western-style buildings and so on â are enlivened by roaming geisha, battling samurai and a superbly cheesy âspecial effectsâ zone. On the way out, donât miss the Movie Museum, where Japanese film buffs can take a nostalgic romp through the archives.
Around Kyoto
Thereâs so much to see in Kyoto itself that most people donât explore the surrounding area. First priority should probably go to Arashiyama, to the west side of Kyoto, which is famous for its gardens and temples, as well as the Hozu-gawa gorge boat ride and the monkey park. Uji, to the south of Kyoto, is another quiet pocket of history and home to the magnificent ByĆdĆ-in, whose graceful Phoenix Hall is a masterpiece of Japanese architecture, as well as the tea fields which support Kyotoâs cultural traditions. In the northeast of Kyoto is Hiei-zan, atop a mountain overlooking the city, where age-old cedars shelter the venerable temples of Enryaku-ji. Below Hiei-zan, Ćhara contains a scattering of beguiling temples in an attractive valley.
Slightly further afield, but definitely worth the effort, are Amanohashidate, the âBridge to Heavenâ, on the northern coast of Kyoto prefecture and one of the trio of top scenic views in Japan; the attractive castle town of Hikone on Biwa-ko, Japanâs largest lake; and the architecturally stunning Miho Museum, nestled in the Shigaraki mountains.
Amanohashidate
At the northern tip of Kyoto-fu (Kyoto prefecture), the stubby peninsula of Tango-hantĆ (äžčćŸććł¶) leans protectively over Wakasa Bay, shielding the sand spit of Amanohashidate (怩æ©ç«), the âBridge to Heavenâ. As one of the trio of top scenic views in Japan (the other two are Matsushima and Miyajima), Amanohashidate has a lot to live up to. The âbridgeâ is actually a 3.6km ribbon of white sand and pine trees slinking its way between the touristy villages of Monju and FuchĆ« across the bay.
On Mount Nariai above FuchĆ«, the splendidly atmospheric Nariai-ji is one of the 33 temples on the Saigoku Kannon pilgrimage route, while closer to the summit there is a fantastic view of the bay and coast as far away as the Noto-hantĆ, some 500km northeast. East along the Tango-hantĆ lies the picturesque fishing hamlet of Ine, while across the bay in Monju is another attractive wooden temple, Chion-ji, standing on the brink of the sandbar â a lovely area for a quiet stroll or cycle ride, or simply lazing on the beach.
Hiei-zan
Protecting Kyotoâs northeastern flank (traditionally considered the source of evil spirits threatening the capital), the sacred mountain of Hiei-zan (æŻćĄć±±) is the home of Tendai Buddhism, the headquarters of which are housed in an atmospheric collection of buildings, Enryaku-ji. Also on top of the mountain is the kitsch Garden Museum Hiei, an outdoor museum devoted to re-creating garden scenes from famous paintings by Monet and Renoir. Away from the commercialization, Enryaku-ji is still a pleasant place to meander along ancient paths through cedar forests. Though there are several ways of getting to Enryaku-ji, the easiest route is by bus from Kyoto, wriggling up the mountainside and then following a ridge road north. On a clear day youâll be rewarded with huge views west over Biwa-ko, Japanâs largest lake and the second-oldest freshwater lake in the world after Lake Baikal in Siberia.
Marathon monks
Followers of the Buddhist Tendai sect believe that the route to enlightenment lies through chanting, esoteric ritual and extreme physical endurance. The most rigorous of these practices is the âthousand-day ascetic mountain pilgrimageâ, in which marathon monks, as theyâre popularly known, are required to walk 40,000km through the mountains and streets of Kyoto in a thousand days â the equivalent of nearly a thousand marathons. The thousand days are split into hundred-day periods over seven years; during each period the monk has to go out every day in all weathers, regardless of his physical condition. He must adhere to a strict vegetarian diet and, at one point during the seven years, go on a week-long fast with no food, water or sleep, just for good measure.
Not surprisingly, many monks donât make it â in the old days they were expected to commit ritual suicide if they had to give up. Those that do finish (nowadays, about one person every five years) are rewarded with enlightenment and become âliving Buddhasâ. Apparently, the advice of modern marathon monks is much sought after by national baseball coaches and others involved in endurance training.
Miho Museum
The I.M. Pei-designed Miho Museum (ăăăă„ăŒăžăąă ) is one of the architectural highlights of the Kansai region, although itâs only open for a few months every year â exact dates vary; check the website for details. Located in a rural, mountainous part of Shiga Prefecture, which is best known for its Shigaraki pottery, the museum provides an unlikely setting for an incredible collection of artworks belonging to Koyama Mihoko and her daughter Hiroko. Koyama is the head of one of Japanâs so-called ânew religionsâ, Shinki Shumeikai, founded in 1970, which has an estimated 300,000 followers worldwide, hundreds of whom live and work here at the museum. The central tenet of Shinki Shumeikaiâs philosophy is that spiritual fulfilment lies in art and nature, hence the setting.
From the entrance and restaurant (serving excellent, if pricey, organic vegetarian cuisine), access to the museum proper is on an electric shuttle bus through a tunnel that opens onto a beautiful valley spanned by a 120m-high bridge; alternatively, you can walk â it takes about fifteen minutes on foot. Opposite is a series of tetrahedrons, which is all that can be seen of the museum, as most of it is actually built inside the mountainside due to planning restrictions. Inside, a continually shifting pattern of light and shadow is created by the innovative use of skylights, pyramid-shaped wall lights and ever-so-slightly uneven corridors which look out â through windows fitted with aluminium screens â onto bamboo gardens and tranquil green landscapes.
The museum has two wings. The north wing houses Japanese art, including priceless porcelain, scrolls, screens and Buddhist relics; the south wing has antiquities from the rest of the world, including jewellery, frescoes, textiles and statues produced by a range of civilizations, from ancient Egyptian to classical Chinese. Among the numerous treasures are a three-thousand-year-old silver-and-gold cult figure of a falcon-headed deity from Egyptâs 19th dynasty, a limestone Assyrian relief unearthed in Nimrud and the splendid Sanguszko Carpet from Iran. Each artwork is labelled in English and Japanese and there are explanatory leaflets in some of the galleries, but the overall effect is one of art that is meant to be experienced for its intrinsic beauty rather than its historical or cultural import.
There are tours available to the museum but it is better (and very much cheaper) to get there by yourself. From JR Kyoto Station, take a local train on the JR Biwako line (for Nagahama or Maibara) two stops to JR Ishiyama Station (every 10â15min; 13min; „230). Buses (50min; „800), run by the Teisan Bus Company, leave for the museum from outside Ishiyama Stationâs south exit. On weekdays, buses leave at ten minutes past the hour between 9.10am and 1.10pm. If you miss the last bus, youâll have to take a taxi, which is quite expensive („6000). On Saturdays, Sundays and national holidays, the weekday timetable is supplemented by buses at 9.50am and 2.55pm.
Ćhara
Though only a short bus ride north from Kyoto, the collection of temples that make up ĆHARA (性ć) is almost in a different world. All are sub-temples of Enryaku-ji, but the atmosphere here is quite different: instead of stately cedar forests, these little temples are surrounded by maples and flower-filled gardens, fed by tumbling streams. The sights are divided into two sections: the easterly Sanzen-in and the melancholy JakkĆ-in across the rice fields.
Continue your exploration of Japan with our practical tips on what you need to know before travelling to the country.