What’s the etiquette?
Most of the bars accept visitors now, but some still only welcome regular customers. Check to see if there’s a price list or anything in English posted out front and you'll be good. Alternatively, just walk in, smile politely and see what reaction you get; chances are that if it’s a regulars-only bar you’ll be told there’s no room (empty seats or not).
Most of the bars have a cover charge, though a small number are free to enter. Sheer physical proximity means you may end up making friends with your neighbour – it’s amazing how quickly the language barrier disappears after a glass or three of shōchū.
Talking of the language barrier, if you’re up to it then a bit of basic vocab will definitely be well-received. “O-susume” is “recommendation” – a surefire way to make a new friend. The simple but polite way to order is “[drink] o kudasai”. Finally, most vitally of all, be sure to make judicious use of “oishii” or “umai” (“delicious”) and, of course, “kanpai!” (“cheers!”).
If this is your first time or you're not keen on going by yourself, consider joining a small group tour to Shinjuku, including the red-light district and of course the famous Golden Gai bars.
Which bars are worth visiting?
If you’re nervous about accidentally wandering into a regulars-only bar, start at one of the better-known gaijin (foreigner) friendly establishments.
Arriving via Yasukuni-dōri, the first bar you’ll reach is Champion. It’s large and has no cover charge, but the karaoke might put you off your drinks. Another popular choice is the plush Albatross, which has a rooftop terrace with impressive views of Tokyo.
To really get a feel for Golden Gai, though, you need to head away from these larger bars and start peeking up staircases and through doorways to see what takes your fancy.
Zucca is a small, friendly bar with Halloween-themed decor (the name means pumpkin in Italian). The bar staff here not only greet most customers by name, but also know their usual drink, the state of their health, and myriad other personal details, presumably divulged after a few glasses.
Another standout is Blue Square, on the edges of Golden Gai up a staircase marked by a small blue sign in the shape of a circle. It’s tiny – four can sit at the bar – but it attracts some interesting characters. The bar owners had originally planned an S&M joint, hence the spiked and studded bras hanging on the wall, but couldn’t afford such specialised staff. They ended up with a regular bartender from Osaka! In classic outspoken Osakan style though, she says "Don't go asking me for a spanking, I'm definitely not paid enough for that!"
Not sure how to get from bar to bar? Read our article about getting around Tokyo
Hotels near Golden Gai
For a true Lost in Translation experience book a room at the ultra-luxurious Park Hyatt in Shinjuku.
Budget travellers would do well to book in at Kadoya, a clean and efficient business hotel with a fun bar in the basement.
Also, make sure to read all about the best areas to stay in Tokyo.
