The stretch of coast in the far east of Bali from Culik to Aas is known as Amed although this is just one village here. Accommodation is mushrooming along the 11km stretch from Amed to Aas, as people come here to enjoy the peace and quiet, the clifftop views of the glorious coastline and black beaches, and to take in the stunning underwater attractions.

Access to Amed is from the small junction village of Culik just over 9km north of Tirtagangga on the Amlapura–Singaraja road. In Amed, 3km away, life centres on fishing and salt production, which you can see at close quarters. A kilometre east is the hamlet of Congkang, then Jemeluk, 6km from Culik, which attracts divers and snorkellers for the offshore coral terrace leading to a wall dropping to a depth of more than 40m. There’s a high density of fish, with sharks, wrasses and parrotfish in the outer parts. From Jemeluk lies headland after headland: the beaches and villages of Bunutan and Lipah Beach are the most developed areas, though they remain low-key, leading on to Lehan Beach, Selang, Ibus, Banyuning and eventually Aas, almost 15km from Culik.

As well as at Jemeluk, there’s excellent diving at a wreck at Lipah Beach and a drift dive at Bunutan, with the chance to see schools of barracuda and giant barrel sponges. Advanced divers can explore Gili Selang, the eastern tip of Bali, where a pristine reef, pelagics and exciting currents are the draw. Good snorkelling spots include Jemeluk, the wreck at Lipah Beach and a Japanese wreck near the coast at Banyuning.

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