#8 Snorkel at remote Taka Bonerate National Park
Another of Sulawesi’s difficult-to-reach locations, Taka Bonerate National Park appears to be in the middle of nowhere in the Flores Sea, some 30km (20 miles) offshore. The islands of Taka Bonerate (a Bugis name meaning ‘coral piled up on sand’) are surrounded by table reefs, making the marine park a paradise for snorkellers and divers, who can spot four species of endangered sea turtles, jackfish, eels, groupers and giant clams.
Underwater visibility is usually excellent, while above water the bird life is also of interest. The problem is getting there: the journey takes at least 14 hours from Makassar on a series of bus and boat rides, and the only accommodation on the islands is in villagers’ homes.
#9 Try some local delicacies in Tomohon
North Sulawesi is the only part of a strangely sprawling island that has volcanoes. Nestled between two of them, is Tomohon, meaning ‘people who pray’. The town is a bustling place with a pleasant climate. The large traditional market, uphill from the centre, is infamous for its grizzly array of exotic meats – from whole fruit bats to pythons. There are far less gruesome culinary attractions closer to the centre of town where a large array of colourful food-stalls and small roadside eateries operate.
Delicious pork sate (miniature kebabs) is a local favourite, and there are also some fine baked goods available. For energetic travellers, a trek to the top of either of Tomohon’s adjacent peaks, Lokon or Mahawu, is both challenging and worthwhile for spectacular views.
#10 Seek out the shy anoa in Bogani Nani Wartabone National
Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park (formerly called Dumoga Bone National Park), a vast mountainous rainforest rich in fruit-bearing trees such as durian, nutmeg and figs, and home to a collection of endemic Sulawesi animals including the babirusa (Sulawesi ‘pig-deer’) and the shy anoa.
The New York-based Wildlife Conservation Society, established in 1895, partners with a local conservation group to manage three of the largest communal nesting grounds for the maleo birds in the park. Its southern coast is the last known site of beach nests for this endangered land-bird.