#2 Spot wildlife at Manusela National Park
Seram, the largest and among the least-known islands in Maluku, hovers over Ambon, Saparua and Molana. Seram lies within the Wallacea Transitional Zone and is a key area for global studies on species evolution. The central Manusela National Park, which is home to 2,000 species of butterflies and moths and 120 species of birds, covers an area of 189,000 hectares (467,103 acres).
Wahai village is the northern entrance to the park, and Sanulo village, overlooking the Bay of Teluti, is the southern gateway. Many of Ambon’s traditions are said to have originated in Seram, including the division into two sets of customs, the patasiwa, and the patalima, as well as the pela alliances between two villages, often located far apart.
#3 Visit the Spice War forts of The Bandas
South of Seram and Ambon is the tiny Banda archipelago. Long the world’s only source of nutmeg, it was tapped into global trade networks since at least the Roman era, but the locals remained in control of their own economy until the Portuguese arrived in 1512, followed by the Dutch a century later, to set up a spice monopoly.
The English, who arrived shortly after the Dutch, attempted to undercut their rivals by shipping nutmeg to Europe from Run – their own toehold in the Bandas. The monopoly was restored when Britain and Holland traded Manhattan for Run, but as spices were increasingly produced elsewhere, the nine Banda islands faded into obscurity.
The Bandas’ importance in the English–Dutch struggle to control the spice trade is evidenced in its remaining forts. A military headquarters until 1860, Benteng Belgica was restored in the early 20th century and dominates Bandaneira, the major island of the archipelago.
#4 Lie back on the powder-white beaches of The Kai Islands
East and southeast of the Banda islands, travel becomes more difficult. But the isolated islands of Kai (also spelt Kei) are emerging as a destination, thanks to their powdery white sands and slowly improving transport links. The airstrip near Tual was built by the Japanese during World War II.
Nearby, on the grounds of the Roman Catholic mission, a relief sculpture depicts the history of Catholicism in the area, starting with the arrival of Jesuits in the late 19th century.
During the war, the Japanese invaded the Kai islands, murdering the bishop and 13 foreign priests. Tual on Dullah island is the capital of the Maluku Tenggara (Southeast Maluku) district and the transportation hub for an extensive network of roads and sea lanes.
A half-hour ride away is Dullah village, where the Museum Belawang displays a splendid ceremonial canoe, complete with carved decorations. Close to Tual is Pasir Panjang, a powder-white beach that stretches for 3km (2 miles).
From Tual, motorised canoes depart for the mountainous Kai Besar island. Occasional boats from Tual also head for Dobo, Maluku’s pearl capital and the largest town of the Kepulauan Aru archipelago.
