#3 Delve into Balinese arts at Taman Werdhi Budaya Arts Centre
Marooned in the suburbs of east Denpasar, the Taman Werdhi Budaya Arts Centre was designed in 1973 by one of Indonesia’s most renowned architects, Ida Bagus Tugur.
It consists of a number of performance spaces and is the location of the spectacular annual Bali Arts Festival (usually between mid-June and mid-July) which features a wide array of special exhibitions, competitions and shows.
Outside festival times, the reason to visit Taman Werdhi Budaya Arts Centre is for the small museum on the history of Balinese arts.
On show is an overview of Balinese painting, including the classical wayang style plus works from the Ubud, Batuan and Young Artists styles and modern works, as well as a small display of woodcarving, masks, dance costume, shadow puppets and jewellery.
#4 Take in panoramic rooftop views from Bajra Sandhi
Among the offices in the government administrative district, Renon, on the southeastern edge of the city, is the huge grey lava-stone Bajra Sandhi (“Balinese People’s Struggle”) monument, at the heart of the Lapangan Puputan Margarana (Renon Square) park.
Designed by Taman Budaya’s architect, Ida Bagus Tugur, to resemble a priest’s bell, the monument’s structure also symbolizes the date of Indonesia’s Declaration of Independence – August 17, 1945 – with its eight entrances, seventeen corners and height of 45m.
The upper floor contains a series of 33 dioramas illustrating edited episodes from Balinese history. Climb the spiral stairs and you’re rewarded with a panoramic view across Denpasar’s rooftops.
On Sundays the park is car-free. This is a particularly good day for cycling, walking or jogging with the locals who visit in droves. To avoid the crowds, go during the week.
Best areas to stay in Denpasar
The vast majority of visitors to Denpasar will only visit the island's capital as part of a tour or day trip, so the accommodation here isn't the best. There are a number of decent chain hotels and some homestays, but travellers tend to land in Bali and then head south for somewhere to stay.
Off Jl. Tukad Badung
There are clusters of cheap hostels and guesthouses to the south of the Interactive Art Museum Bali, located off of the Jl. Tukad Badung, which runs north to south through the city centre.
Beachfront
To the east of the city, where Denpasar hits the oceanfront, are the pick of the hotels. Big chains, fancy high-rise hotels and plenty of midrange options.
Check the best accommodation in Denpasar.
Best restaurants and bars
There are few tourist-oriented restaurants in Denpasar, so this is a good chance to sample Bali’s cheap, authentic neighbourhood places to eat. Note that smaller restaurants generally shut by 7pm. Renon is the eating destination for middle-class locals and expats, but it’s a fair haul from the hotels in the city centre.
Babi Guling Candra While this simple warung isn't much to look at, it's one of the last places in Denpasar to sample babi guling, Bali's renowned suckling pig. Rice is topped with pork slices and served (quickly) with sate lilit, crispy pork skin, soup and veggies.
Bhineka Jaya Kopi Bali At this modest-looking outlet of Indonesia’s Butterfly Globe Brand, you can sample a cappuccino or Bali coffee, then choose which grade of island beans to take home.
River Walk Pasars Badung and Kumbasari Two bustling markets by day are transformed into a pasar malam (night market) on both sides of the river. At dusk the illuminated bridge and shops transform the usual food stalls into a new adventure. Supercheap soups, noodle and rice dishes and cold beer are the norm here.
