Chaves Travel Guide

Chaves is one of the most appealing towns in Trás-os-Montes, sitting on the banks of the Rio Tâmega just 12km from Spain. Its name means “keys,” a nod to the town’s long-standing role as a border stronghold. The Romans knew its value too, founding a settlement here in 78 AD and leaving behind an impressive stone bridge that still carries traffic today. Over the centuries, Visigoths, Moors, Spanish, and French all took turns fighting for control, which explains the castles, towers, and thick walls that still frame the medieval center.

But Chaves isn’t just about battles and ruins. The old town charms visitors with its tiled balconies, green gardens, and squares where locals stop to drink coffee. The thermal springs have been pulling visitors since Roman times, yet you could easily skip the spa and still fill your days. What you shouldn’t miss are the flavors: smoky presunto (cured ham), rich sausages, and hearty local wines, all proudly claimed as some of the best in northern Portugal.

Where is Chaves?

Chaves lies in northern Portugal’s Trás-os-Montes region, just 12 km from the Spanish border. It is about 150 km from Porto, a two-hour drive on the A24 motorway.

Often listed among the best places to visit in Portugal, this historic border town is a rewarding stop on any northern itinerary. From here, you can tour the vineyards of the Douro Valley, hike in the Peneda-Gerês National Park, or cross into Galicia in Spain for a quick day trip.

How to get around Chaves

Chaves is a walkable town, with most of its main sights set around the river and within the medieval walls. The lanes are easier on the legs than in many Portuguese hill towns, but you will still want good shoes for the cobbles and the climb up to the fortress.

• Walking: The best way to experience Chaves. You can stroll from the Roman bridge to Praça de Camões in just a few minutes, then wander through narrow streets lined with balconies and tiled façades. Allow time for detours into riverside gardens and the leafy spa park. Evenings are especially atmospheric when locals come out for their passeio, the traditional evening walk.
• Car: Driving inside the historic core is not an option, but you will find car parks on the edge of the old town, from where it is a short walk to the center. A car is useful if you plan to explore the wider region.
• Taxi: Local taxis are reliable and affordable. They are useful if you arrive by long-distance bus and want a quick transfer to your accommodation. Chaves is small enough that you won’t need them once you are settled in the center, but they come in handy for late-night returns.
• Bike: The surrounding countryside has quiet backroads that suit cycling, though be prepared for rolling terrain. In town, the cobblestones and traffic make bikes less appealing, but e-bikes are becoming more common for those who want to combine a ride with a countryside tour.

How long to spend in Chaves?

You can get a taste of Chaves in a single day. Walk the Roman bridge in the morning light, explore the old town streets, climb to the castle for the views, and finish with pastéis de Chaves and a glass of red wine. It works as a stopover, but you will be skimming the surface.

Give yourself at least one night if you can. Once the buses leave, the town settles into a slower rhythm. Locals gather in the squares, the river reflects the lamps, and the castle walls feel yours alone. Two days is even better. Spend the first exploring the spa springs, gardens, and medieval lanes, and save the second for short trips nearby. Vidago tempts with its palatial spa hotel, the Douro is close enough for a vineyard visit, and Spain lies just across the border.

Where to stay in Chaves

Chaves has a mix of small hotels, guesthouses, and countryside retreats, most within walking distance of the historic center or a short drive away. Where you choose depends on the kind of trip you want.

• First-time visitors: Old town. Base yourself among the cobbled streets and lively squares if you want to wake up steps from the Roman bridge, castle walls, and cafés. Rooms here often overlook tiled rooftops or the river, though parking can be tricky and you may need to walk your luggage across the lanes.
• For couples: Riverside district. Hotels and guesthouses along the Rio Tâmega offer quieter settings and evening strolls by the water. Look for traditional houses with balconies or boutique stays with garden courtyards. The atmosphere is relaxed, and sunset views across the river add a touch of romance.
• For families: Near the spa park. Stays in this area give you more space, easy parking, and quick access to playgrounds and gardens. It is a good choice if you are traveling through Portugal with kids, since you are close to open spaces while still just a short walk from the center.
• For exploring the region: Countryside quintas. Farm stays and small estates outside Chaves give you a peaceful base while keeping the town within a short drive. They are ideal if you plan to tour vineyards, visit Vidago’s grand spa hotel, or hop across the border to Spain.

What to do in Chaves

Chaves is often overlooked on a Portugal itinerary, but that is a mistake. This small town near the Spanish border has a Roman bridge that still carries traffic, hot springs, and food traditions that people across Portugal envy. You can see the highlights in a day, yet the blend of history, gardens, and daily life rewards a longer stay. Here are the best things to do in Chaves, each worth taking your time for.

#1 Cross the Roman bridge

The Ponte Romana is Chaves’ most enduring monument, built in the first century AD and still carrying cars and pedestrians across the Rio Tâmega. Its twelve granite arches stretch elegantly over the water, a feat of Roman engineering that has survived almost two millennia.

As you walk across, pause in the middle to take in the view of the river and the tiled houses rising along its banks. Look closely at the Latin inscriptions carved into stone at either end of the bridge, a reminder of the soldiers and engineers who built it. In the early morning, the arches rise from low mist, while in the evening the lamps light up the bridge in warm reflection.

#2 Climb the castle tower and walk the walls

Chaves’ medieval castle is defined by its tall keep, a square tower dating to the 14th century. The climb to the top is short but steep, rewarded with wide views of the rooftops, the river, and the surrounding hills that once marked the contested frontier.

Inside the tower is a small military museum with armor, weapons, and maps that show Chaves’ long role as a border stronghold. Around the keep, you can trace sections of the old defensive walls. They cut behind gardens and modern houses, but you can still picture the watchful soldiers who once patrolled this line.

#3 Experience the thermal springs

Hot water bursts from the ground in Chaves at a near-boiling 158°F (70°C), one of the hottest natural springs in Europe. The Romans built baths here, medieval pilgrims came seeking cures, and today people still line up at the Fonte do Povo for a steaming taste of the mineral water. The flavor is strong, metallic, and sulfuric, but locals swear by its health benefits.

If you want more than a sip, the modern spa complex offers treatments and baths. Even without trying either, the leafy park around the springs is a fine place to stroll. On cool mornings, the steam curls up through flowerbeds, giving you a sense of why this water has been at the heart of Chaves for centuries.

#4 Spend time in Praça de Camões

This graceful square is the social center of Chaves, framed by baroque churches, stone fountains, and tiled façades. During the day, it is busy with shoppers, children, and café tables, while in the evening, families appear for their traditional passeios.

Sit at one of the terraces with a coffee or a glass of red wine and let the life of the square flow around you. Old men argue over the newspaper, young couples stroll past arm in arm, and the bells of nearby churches mark the hours. To understand Chaves, it helps to stop here and simply watch.

#5 Step inside Igreja da Misericórdia

Standing just off the square, this 17th-century church impresses with its blue-and-white tiled façade. Step inside and you are greeted with gilded altars, painted ceilings, and woodcarvings that glow in the dim light.

The richness of the interior contrasts with the plain stone streets outside, reminding you of Chaves’ baroque prosperity. Even if churches are not usually on your list, give this one a few minutes. The artistry and atmosphere speak for themselves.

#6 Taste a pastel de Chaves

The pastel de Chaves is a flaky pastry with a spiced minced beef filling, so tied to the town that it carries Protected Geographical Indication status. Every bakery claims the best recipe, and locals will happily debate which one is right.

Order one warm from the oven and eat it as you wander between lanes. The pastry crumbles in your hands, the filling is rich, and together with a glass of red from Trás-os-Montes, it becomes a meal in miniature. If you are traveling in Portugal with kids, you will also find plenty of sweet pastries in the same cafés to balance out the savory bite.

#7 Walk the riverside gardens

The Rio Tâmega defines the town, and its banks have been turned into shaded parks and walking paths. These gardens are where locals exercise, picnic, or simply rest on benches under chestnut trees.

Cross to the far bank for the best angle on the Roman bridge with the old town rising behind it. In spring, the flowerbeds brighten, in summer children play until late, and in autumn the river reflects the golden light. Come in the evening to see families out walking and fishermen casting their lines, and you will understand how important this space is to daily life.

#8 Explore the museum of Chaves

The Museu da Região Flaviense occupies the 17th-century Palace of the Dukes of Bragança and offers a compact survey of the region’s history. Inside you will find Roman milestones, medieval armor, and folk costumes that show how Chaves has changed while keeping its traditions alive.

Do not hurry through. The creaking staircases, painted ceilings, and echoing halls add as much atmosphere as the displays. An hour here leaves you with a clear sense of the town’s deep roots and its mixture of empire and everyday life.

#9 Visit Vidago for a day trip

Just fifteen minutes south of Chaves lies Vidago, a spa town that became fashionable in the early 20th century. Its centerpiece is the grand Vidago Palace Hotel, a pink palace surrounded by landscaped gardens and fountains. You do not need to stay overnight to enjoy it. Wander the tree-lined avenues, sip the mineral water, and admire the architecture that once hosted Portugal’s high society.

The village beyond the hotel is quiet but welcoming, with cafés and shops that remind you this is still a lived-in place. Vidago shows a gentler side of the region, a contrast to the fortress walls and medieval streets of Chaves.

#10 Hop across to Verín in Spain

Chaves sits just twelve kilometers from the border, which makes it an ideal stop on any Spain and Portugal itinerary. A short drive brings you to Verín, a Galician town known for its medieval castle, historic churches, and lively tapas bars. Order a drink and you will be served pulpo a la gallega or croquetas alongside, a striking contrast to the flavors you have just tasted in Portugal.

If you are here in February, Verín bursts into life for Entroido, one of Spain’s most vibrant carnivals. Masked figures called cigarróns parade through the streets with whips and cowbells, a tradition that has been kept alive for centuries. Even outside festival season, the castle views and laid-back Spanish atmosphere make this cross-border diversion well worth the effort.

Weather in Chaves

Chaves has a Mediterranean climate with continental influence, which means hot summers, cooler winters, and a bigger difference between day and night temperatures than you get on the coast. Sitting in the Tâmega valley near the Spanish border, the town is warmer than Lisbon or Porto but less extreme than the mountain villages of Trás-os-Montes. If you are weighing up the best time to visit Portugal, it helps to know that Chaves is pleasant in spring and autumn, very hot in midsummer, and quiet but cool in winter. Average temperatures range from about 44°F (7°C) in January to 86°F (30°C) in August. Heatwaves can push it into the 90s, while winter nights occasionally slip close to freezing. For current conditions, check IPMA (Portuguese Institute for Sea and Atmosphere).

• Spring (March to May): Spring is one of the best seasons to visit Chaves. March brings average highs around 63°F (17°C), climbing to 75°F (24°C) by May. The riverside gardens bloom, the spa park is lively, and the old town feels fresh after winter rains. Days are long and comfortable for exploring the Roman bridge, castle, and nearby countryside. Guesthouse prices typically run €55-€85 a night.
• Summer (June to August): Expect hot, dry weather, with July and August averaging 86°F (30°C) during the day. The Tâmega valley can feel stifling in peak heat, so plan castle climbs and riverside walks for morning or late afternoon. Festivals fill the calendar, and evenings are vibrant with open-air concerts and processions. It is high season, so stays in central Chaves range from €80-€120 per night. Bring light clothing, a hat, and water if you are out during the day.
• Autumn (September to November): Early autumn is warm and mellow, with September averaging 79°F (26°C) and October in the low 70s. Vineyards across Trás-os-Montes are in harvest, making it a prime season for wine-tasting trips. Prices drop back to €50-€75 per night, and the town is quieter, though October and November bring a higher chance of rain. Expect evenings in the 50s and pack a light jacket.
• Winter (December to February): Winters are mild but damp, with daytime highs averaging 52°F-55°F (11°C-13°C) and nights in the low 40s. Rain is most common in December and January, but sunny breaks are frequent. Chaves feels atmospheric in winter, with steam rising from the hot springs and fewer visitors in the squares. Room rates are at their lowest, around €40-€65, making it a good time if you want the town almost to yourself. Dress in layers and plan café stops between walks.

Where to eat in Chaves

Chaves has a reputation across Portugal for its food, and eating here is as much a part of the visit as crossing the Roman bridge or climbing the castle. Meals are hearty, rooted in the traditions of Trás-os-Montes, and often based on recipes passed down through families. Expect smoky cured meats, slow-cooked stews, and pastries with Protected Geographical Indication status. Portions are generous, flavors are rustic, and the atmosphere is welcoming, whether you are in a centuries-old tasca or a modern riverside café.

Must-try dishes

• Pastel de Chaves: The town’s signature pastry, a flaky half-moon filled with spiced minced beef. Best eaten warm from a bakery with a glass of local red.
• Presunto de Chaves: Air-dried ham cured in mountain cellars, sliced thin and served as a starter with bread and olives. Rich, salty, and deeply flavorful.
• Alheiras and chouriços: Smoked sausages that appear on almost every menu. They are grilled or fried, often served with potatoes and greens.
• Posta à transmontana: A thick-cut veal steak, seared on the outside and tender inside, usually paired with roasted potatoes.
• Compotas and honey: Sweet preserves made from local fruit, chestnuts, or pumpkin, often sold alongside cheese plates in restaurants and cafés.

Top restaurants and cafés

• Adega Faustino: A long-standing favorite serving traditional Chaves cuisine in a vaulted stone cellar. The presunto is a must, and mains are as filling as they are flavorful.
• Restaurante Carvalho: Known for its posta à transmontana and grilled meats, with an unpretentious setting and excellent value.
• Taberna Benito: A lively spot for petiscos (small plates) and wine, good for trying local sausages, cheeses, and seasonal dishes.
• Restaurante Pensao Flavia: A family-run place with a loyal local following, serving hearty regional dishes like feijoada, grilled meats, and seasonal stews in a no-frills dining room.
• Pastelaria Maria: A popular bakery for pastéis de Chaves, as well as cakes and sweets, if you are traveling in Portugal with kids and need a quick treat stop.

Trips and tours to Chaves

Here are some unique experiences we can arrange for your tailor-made Chaves trip: all private, flexible, and designed by our local travel experts.

• Chaves history and walking tour: Discover the Roman bridge, the medieval castle tower, and the baroque squares on a guided stroll through the old town. Hear stories of battles with Spain and France, see how the thermal springs shaped the town, and stop at a local café to try a pastel de Chaves fresh from the oven. Perfect for first-time visitors who want to understand Chaves’ mix of history and daily life.
• Roman heritage day trip: Chaves was once a key Roman settlement known as Aquae Flaviae. A guided tour can take you through the museum’s collection of milestones and stone inscriptions, the Ponte Romana, and the remains of thermal baths. Combine it with a short drive to other Roman sites in the region for a deeper dive into the empire’s northern frontier.
• Food and wine of Trás-os-Montes: Taste the flavors that make Chaves famous. Sample presunto cured in mountain cellars, smoky sausages, and rustic stews, then visit a nearby vineyard to try Trás-os-Montes wines. A local food expert can also guide you through markets where chestnuts, honey, and homemade liqueurs are still staples.
• Family-friendly Chaves adventure: An easygoing tour designed for those traveling in Portugal with kids. Includes a treasure-hunt style walk through the castle grounds, a stop at the riverside gardens for a picnic, and a bakery visit where children can try their hand at shaping their own pastel de Chaves.
• Chaves and Vidago spa experience: Spend the morning exploring Chaves’ historic core and thermal springs, then continue to Vidago to stroll the palace gardens and taste the mineral waters. End the day with a traditional meal in a countryside quinta surrounded by vineyards.
• Cross-border excursion to Spain: Make the most of Chaves’ location just 12 km from the frontier with a trip into Galicia. Visit Verín’s castle, wander its old streets, and enjoy a tapas lunch before returning to Portugal. A guide helps you see how culture shifts when you cross the border, even though the landscape looks the same.