Day 5: Temples, caves, and bats
Leave town early on day five of this Cambodia itinerary and follow the Sangker River to Wat Slaket and then Wat Ek Phnom. The ruins at Wat Ek Phnom are from the 11th century and quieter than the temples near Siem Reap.
There’s also a market nearby that specializes in prahoc, a fermented fish paste that’s a staple in Khmer cooking. In the afternoon, head up Phnom Sampeou. There’s a small temple at the top and views across the fields. The mountain also has caves used by the Khmer Rouge, now marked with small shrines.
Around sunset, stay at the base of the hill to watch thousands of bats fly out of the caves. It lasts about half an hour and happens like clockwork.
Insider's tip: Don’t forget insect repellent. Once the sun starts to set, mosquitoes come out fast, especially near the bat caves.
Day 6: Introduction to Siem Reap
Travel time: 3–4 hours
The drive from Battambang to Siem Reap is about 105 miles (170 kilometers), and the road is in decent condition. Shared minivans and private taxis both run this route. The drive is mostly through flat countryside, with rice paddies on either side. Some people choose to detour to Beng Mealea temple, but that turns this into a longer travel day. If you’re already planning to see more temples near Siem Reap, it’s fine to skip it.
Arriving in Siem Reap, you’ll notice the energy shift right away. There’s more traffic, more tuk tuks, and a whole lot more construction. It’s a base for visiting Angkor, but the town has its own rhythm too. If you’ve got the time, start at Wat Bo. It’s one of the older pagodas in town, and the Ramayana murals inside are easy to miss if you don’t know to look. They’re faded but still detailed, showing scenes from Hindu mythology.
Nearby, Les Artisans d’Angkor runs workshops where young Cambodians train in things like stone carving and lacquer painting. You can walk through the studios and see the tools, watch someone weaving silk by hand, or carving out sandstone lintels similar to the ones you’ll see at Angkor Wat.
The Old Market (Psar Chas) is worth walking through, especially late afternoon when stalls are packed. You’ll find people buying herbs, grilled fish, school uniforms, bulk spices, flip-flops, souvenirs. It’s a proper local market, not just for tourists.