Standing guard over the two extremes of the Sacred Valley, the ancient Inca citadels of Pisac and Ollantaytambo perch high above the stunning Río Vilcanota Urubamba and are among the most evocative ruins in Peru. They are natural anchors for a Peru trip that moves beyond Cusco into the heart of the Sacred Valley.
Pisac itself is a small, pretty town with one of Peru’s best artesanía markets, just 30km northeast of Cusco, close to the end of the Río Vilcanota’s wild run from Urcos. Further downstream are the ancient villages of Calca, Yucay, and Urubamba, the last of which has the most visitors’ facilities and a developing reputation as a spiritual and meditation centre, yet somehow still retains its traditional Andean charm.
At the far northern end of the Sacred Valley, even the magnificent ancient town of Ollantaytambo is overwhelmed by the astounding temple-fortress clinging to the sheer cliffs beside it. The town is a very pleasant place to spend some time, with good restaurants and a convenient location in the heart of great trekking country. It makes an ideal base from which to take a tent and trek above one of the Urubamba’s minor tributaries, or else tackle one of the Salcantay trails.
Beyond Ollantaytambo the route becomes too tortuous for any road to follow. Here, the valley closes in around the rail tracks, and the Río Urubamba begins to race and twist below Machu Picchu itself.