The staging post for the southeast, Höfn is a small town perched on a narrow neck of land, with a prime view inland of four glacial tongues descending Vatnajökull – at least on days when the pernicious fogs abate. The bay here, Hornafjörður, was settled in Viking times by Hrollaugur Rögnvaldsson, distant ancestor of saga writer Snorri Sturluson, though the town itself began life as late as 1897 as a trading post, unimaginatively named Höfn (Harbour) after the bay’s deep anchorage. Expansion followed the 1950s fishing boom and the establishment of a fish-freezing plant, which remains the largest local employer; Höfn is famed for its fine lobster.
Höfn’s main street is Hafnarbraut, which runs for about 1.5km south through the town, with most services in a loose cluster towards or around the harbour.
From Höfn, Glacier Jeeps and Glacier Journey focus on Ski-Doo (a brand of snowmobile) trips to one of the nearby glaciers descending Vatnajökull. From their respective base camps you mount a Ski-Doo and drive out onto the glacier, tearing across a frozen, empty horizon at upwards of 40km an hour; warm clothing, crash helmet and full instruction are provided (bringing sunglasses is a good idea).
Top image: Landscape near Hofn on the south coast of Iceland © Steve Allen/Shutterstock