Tulum and around

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To visitors, Tulum can mean several different things. First, it is one of the most scenic of all ancient Maya sites, set dramatically on 15-meter cliffs overlooking the strikingly turquoise Caribbean Sea. Tulum also refers to a long stretch of broad, white sand beach lined with places to stay that range from simple eco-cabins to luxurious boutique hotels; many beach bars and casual spots still carry traces of their backpacker origins, even if the prices no longer do.

Finally, Tulum is a fast-growing town, often called Tulum Pueblo to distinguish it from the beachfront, that has evolved from a quiet roadside stop into a lively community with restaurants, shops, and tour operators. From here, visitors can arrange excursions into the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve and beyond. Its mix of archaeology, beaches, and modern bohemian energy makes it a memorable stop on any trip to Yucatán.

Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve

Sian Ka’an means “the place where the sky is born” in Maya, a name that feels especially fitting when you watch the sunrise in this remarkable part of the peninsula. Created by presidential decree in 1986 and designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987, the biosphere reserve stretches along the coast south of Tulum. It is one of the largest protected areas in Mexico, covering more than 1.3 million acres. Most of its roughly one thousand permanent residents are fishermen and subsistence farmers living in the village of Punta Allen. Many visitors enter from Tulum for day trips, while only a few continue on to Punta Allen to experience the area at a slower and more immersive pace, an inspiring highlight for any Mayan heritage trip.

The reserve contains all three principal ecosystems found in the Yucatán Peninsula and the Caribbean. About one third is tropical forest, another third is composed of freshwater and saltwater marshes and mangroves, and the final third is marine habitat, including a section of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef. The forest shelters all five species of Mexican wild cat, including the elusive jaguar, along with spider and howler monkeys, tapirs, and deer. More than three hundred bird species have been documented in the region. The Caribbean beaches serve as nesting grounds for four endangered marine turtle species, and rare West Indian manatees occasionally appear in the inlets. Morelet’s and mangrove crocodiles can be found in the lagoons, adding to the extraordinary biodiversity of this protected place.

Cenotes near Tulum

The area north and west of Tulum has one of the largest concentrations of cenotes on the peninsula, including Ox Bel Ha, which at almost 170km is the longest water-filled cave system in the world. Many of these freshwater sinkholes are accessible from Hwy-307 or off the road to Cobá. Some, like Hidden Worlds, have been developed as adventure centres, and the guides and marked trails at these places can help put first-time visitors at ease in dark water and tight spaces. But it’s also worth visiting one of the less developed alternatives, such as Gran Cenote, 4km up the road to Cobá from Tulum, where the only service is snorkel-gear rental. Either way, you can float above stalagmites and other rock formations – all the fun of cave exploration, with none of the scrabbling around. Zacil-Há, 4km further, is a local hangout and a great beginner pool, as you can see the sandy bottom.

Divers must have open-water certification for cavern diving (in which you explore within the reach of daylight), but cave diving (in which you venture into closed passageways and halls) requires rigorous training. One of the best cave-diving specialists in the area is Aquatech Divers at Villas de Rosa (984 875 9020) at Aventuras beach.

Local development may threaten cenotes in the long run, but clumsy visitors can do more damage in the short term. All the same rules for reef preservation apply here; and be very careful climbing in and out of the water – use the paths and ladders provided.

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Andy Turner

written by
Andy Turner