Costa Maya and Bacalar

The beaches along the 250km stretch of coast between the southern edge of the Sian Ka’an Reserve and the Belizean border may not have the iconic postcard look of Tulum, many are shaded by pines rather than palms, but their beauty lies in their quiet, unspoiled emptiness. Despite development pressures, including a cruise ship pier, the Costa Maya still carries a remote, edge-of-the-world atmosphere.

The two main towns, Mahahual and the smaller Xcalak, were both heavily damaged by Hurricane Dean in 2007. Mahahual has been rebuilt, while Xcalak remains more weathered and rustic. Beach lovers tend to base themselves in Mahahual, while divers and anglers continue south to Xcalak. This lesser-visited coastline offers a peaceful contrast to the busier resort areas and is a memorable addition to any trip to Yucatán.

Inland from the coast is the surprise respite of Laguna de Bacalar, every bit as clear and beautiful as the Caribbean and harbouring its own special wildlife. Like the Costa Maya, its shores are a respite from development up the coast.

Laguna de Bacalar

Inland from the Costa Maya and about 35km north of Chetumal, the gorgeous Laguna de Bacalar stretches along the eastern side of Hwy-307. If you haven’t checked a map, it’s easy to mistake the lake for the Caribbean, as it glimmers through the trees in shades ranging from pale aqua to deep indigo. At roughly 45km long and 1km wide, it’s the second-largest lake in Mexico, yet it attracts only a modest number of Mexican visitors and a small expat community with an interest in ecology and yoga. The birdlife here is exceptionally vibrant, making it a rewarding stop on Mexico’s Mayan trail trip.

The small lakeside town of Bacalar was once a key point on the pre-Columbian trade route, and unexcavated Maya ruins still surround the shoreline. The Chilam Balam of Chumayel, one of the Maya’s sacred texts, even mentions Bacalar as the first settlement of the Itzá, the group that later occupied Chichén Itzá.