Planning your own trip? Prepare for your trip
Use Rough Guides' trusted partners for great rates
written by
Andy Turner
Capital of the state that shares its name, beautiful Campeche is one of Mexico’s finest colonial cities, yet receives surprisingly few visitors. At its heart lies a remarkably intact historic port town still enclosed by imposing defensive walls and fortresses. Inside, elegant eighteenth- and nineteenth-century houses, painted in soft pastels and carefully restored, stand alongside grand Baroque churches. Despite its UNESCO World Heritage status, the city doesn’t feel like an outdoor museum; everyday life continues with appliance shops, cafés, and local businesses filling many storefronts.
Beyond the old center, modern Campeche is growing wealthier and more dynamic, while the seafront, built on reclaimed land, offers a contemporary panorama. Though quieter than Mérida, its beautifully preserved streets and relaxed atmosphere make it a rewarding stop on any trip to Yucatán, and campechanos are known for being among the most welcoming people in Mexico.
Beyond the archaeological museum in the Fuerte de San Miguel, a must-see, and the market just outside the walls near the Puerta de Tierra, there’s little need to venture into the modern city. One of the greatest pleasures of visiting Campeche on a Mexico trip is simply wandering the old town in the early evening or on Sundays, when the central Plaza de la Independencia (known locally as the parque principal, or simply parque) is closed to cars and transforms into a relaxed, festive gathering place.
Brief history
In 1517, a crew of Spanish explorers under Francisco Hernández landed outside the Maya town of Ah Kin Pech, only to beat a hasty retreat on seeing the forces lined up to greet them. Not until 1540 did second-generation conquistador Francisco de Montejo the Younger found the modern town. Until the nineteenth century, Campeche was the peninsula’s chief port, exporting mainly logwood (source of a red dye known as hematein) from local forests. It was an irresistible target for pirates until locals prevailed upon the Spanish authorities to fortify the city: construction of the walls, with eight massive bulwarks (baluartes), began in 1686 after a particularly brutal massacre. Although large sections of the walls have been replaced by a ring road, two major sections survive, along with seven of the eight baluartes.
Rough Guides tip: Start your Mexico highlands and coast trip, including colorful Campeche.
