OSUNA (like Carmona and Écija) is one of those small Andalucian towns that are great to explore in the early evening: slow in pace and quietly enjoyable, with elegant streets of tiled, whitewashed houses interspersed with fine Renaissance mansions. The best of these are off the main street, c/Carrera, which runs down from the central Plaza Mayor, and in particular on c/San Pedro, which intersects it; at no. 16, the Cilla del Cabildo has a superb geometric relief round a carving of the Giralda, and, farther along, the eighteenth-century Palacio de El Marqués de la Gomera – now a hotel and restaurant – is a stunning Baroque extravaganza. There’s also a marvellous casino on Plaza Mayor, with 1920s Mudéjar-style decor and a grandly bizarre ceiling, which is open to all visitors and makes an ideal place for a cool drink.

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