Itháki’s main port and capital is VATHÝ, enclosed by a bay within a bay so deep that few realize the mountains out “at sea” are actually the north of the island. This snug town is compact, relatively traffic-free and boasts the most idyllic seafront setting of all the Ionian capitals. Like its southerly neighbours, it was heavily damaged by the 1953 earthquake but some fine examples of pre-quake architecture remain. Vathý has a small archeological museum on Kalliníkou (Tues–Sun 8.30am–3pm; free), a short block back from the quay. Near the corner of the quay behind the Agricultural Bank, there is also the moderately interesting Folklore & Cultural Museum (April–Oct Mon–Fri 10am–2pm & 7.30–9.30pm; €1).

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