The best and most popular day-trip from Firá is to the three islands of the inner archipelago. Most people stick to the still volcanically active Paleá and Néa Kaméni, although, if you have time, it is worth staying overnight in Thirassía for a glimpse of what Santoríni used to feel like before the cruise ships arrived.

Paleá and Néa Kaméni

Local ferries from either Skála Firás or Ía (Ammoúdhi), venture to the charred volcanic islets of Paleá Kaméni (active 46–1458 AD) and Néa Kaméni (active 1707–1950). At Paleá Kaméni you can swim from the boat to warm mineral-laden springs, while Néa Kaméni (€2 entrance fee), with its own mud-clouded hot springs, features a demanding hike to a smouldering, volcanically active crater.

Thirassía

The boat excursions also continue to the relatively unspoilt islet of Thirassía (thirasia.gr), which was once part of Santoríni until sliced off by an eruption in the third century BC. It’s an excellent destination, except during the tour-boat rush of lunch hour. At other times, the island is one of the quietest in the Cyclades, with views as dramatic as any on Santoríni. The downside is that there is no proper beach and the tavernas in Kórfos close early after the last ferry has gone. There is an ATM at the Citizen’s Service office (KEP) and credit cards are normally not accepted on the island.

Tour boats head for the village of Kórfos, a stretch of shingle backed by fishermen’s houses and high cliffs while ferries dock at Ríva. There should be no problem taking a car or rental bike over, but fill up with petrol first. From Kórfos a steep, stepped path climbs up to Manolás, nearly 200m above, where donkeys are still used for transport. Manolás straggles along the edge of the caldera, an attractive small village that gives an idea of what Santoríni was like before tourism arrived there.

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