Most people bypass Páros interior, but on a cooler day try walking the medieval flagstoned path that once linked both sides of the island. Start from the main square of the village of Mármara and go west. First up is Pródhromos, an old fortified farming settlement with defensive walls girding its nearby monastery. Léfkes itself, 5km from Pródhromos, is perhaps the most unspoilt settlement on Páros. The town flourished from the seventeenth century on, its population swollen by refugees fleeing from coastal piracy; indeed it was the island’s capital during most of the Ottoman period. Léfkes’s marbled alleyways and amphitheatrical setting are unparalleled – and undisturbed by motor vehicles, which are forbidden in the middle of town. Another 5km towards Parikiá and you hit Maráthi, from where Parian marble was supplied to much of Europe. Considered second only to Carrara marble, the last slabs were mined here by the French in 1844 for Napoleon’s tomb in Les Invalides. Just east of the village, marked paths lead to two huge entrances of ancient marble mines which can be visited with an organized tour only. From Maráthi, it’s easy enough to pick up the bus on to Parikiá.

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