AMORGÓS, with its dramatic mountain scenery and laidback atmosphere, is attracting visitors in increasing numbers. The island can get extremely crowded in midsummer, the numbers swollen by film buffs paying their respects to the film location of Luc Besson’s The Big Blue, although fewer venture out to Líveros at the island’s western end to see the wreck of the Olympia which figures so prominently in the film. In general it’s a low-key, escapist clientele, happy to have found a relatively large, interesting, uncommercialized and hospitable island with excellent walking. Families tend to stay around Katápola, while younger tourists prefer Aigiáli.

This is the island to try rakómelo – a kind of fermented grappa with honey, herbs and spices, drunk in shots as an aperitif.

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