Tanjung Issuy is the first Dayak village on the Mahakam and a boat ride away from Muara Muntai. The river ride takes you further into the jungle, passing hornbills, sweeping kingfishers and pot-bellied proboscis monkeys along the way. Tanjung Issuy is a small township of gravel lanes, timber houses and fruit trees. Here the villagers live in kampong houses rather than traditional longhouses, but it’s still a good place to catch a traditional dance performance in full costume.

Turn right off the jetty, past a couple of lumber yards, stores and workshops, and follow the street around to Losmen Louu Taman Jamrud, a restored Dayak longhouse which is maintained as tourist accommodation. It’s a bit like staying in a museum, but the place is surrounded by carved wooden patong posts (spirit posts) and does give you a sense of the community. Out the back is a six-tier mausoleum where Tanjung Issuy’s founder was laid to rest in 1984, decorated with carvings of dragons, hornbills and scenes from reburial ceremonies. Moving on from Tanjung Issuy, you can either return to Muara Muntai, or hire a ces to take you across the northwest towards Mancong.

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