Gay and lesbian
Officially it is still illegal to practise anal sex in Trinidad and Tobago, and bizarrely, it’s also against the law for homosexuals to enter the country (though quite how this would be enforced remains unclear). However, there is a creeping acceptance of the gay community and the government is under pressure to change the law. In relation to the rest of the Caribbean, T&T is noticeably less homophobic. There are gay bars in Port of Spain, but on the whole, the scene remains quite underground with events publicized by word of mouth. Gay and lesbian travellers are unlikely to suffer any direct prejudice but even so, be aware of your surroundings and always be discreet in your behaviour if you do not want to attract any negative attention: public displays of affection are best avoided.
Health
There are few health risks in Trinidad and Tobago: the islands are nonmalarial, and the chlorinated tap water is safe to drink (though it doesn’t taste great, and most locals filter and/or boil it before drinking). There are no mandatory immunizations, though you should ensure that you’re up to date with polio and tetanus vaccines, and if you intend to arrive by ferry from Venezuela (or by plane from South/Central America, Haiti, Dominican Republic, Asia and Africa), you’ll need a yellow fever vaccination certificate.
The most likely hazards are overexposure to the sun, too much rum and the inevitable minor stomach upsets that come with unfamiliar food and water. Heat and humidity make cuts and grazes slower to heal, so apply iodine or antiseptic spray/powder (cream just keeps a cut wet) and try to keep the wound dry. Heat rashes are caused by blocked sweat ducts; to avoid them wear loose cotton clothes, and to treat a rash take frequent cool showers without soap, dust skin with medicated talcum powder, and don’t use sunscreen or moisturizer. Always drink plenty of water (coconut water is especially rehydrating) and use a good-quality, high-factor sunscreen (plus, if possible, keep out of the sun between 11am and 3pm).
Trinidad and Tobago has the fourth highest incidence of HIV & AIDS in the Caribbean (around 1.5 percent prevalence), and cases of other sexually transmitted diseases like gonorrhoea and syphilis are also high. If you do have sex while away, always use a condom.
Animal and plant hazards
Mosquitoes and sandflies can be a real nuisance, particularly in the wet season (June–Dec). Sandflies in particular deliver an incredibly itchy and long-lasting bite and are at their most aggressive at sundown, especially around standing water. Cover your arms and legs at dusk and use plenty of strong insect repellent; Avon’s Skin So Soft moisturizer is said to have miraculous anti-mosquito properties. Once you’ve been bitten, do not scratch or even touch the bites except to apply soothing creams – homeopathic pyrethrum is particularly good, as is a coating of fresh aloe vera gel, or more chemically loaded Benadryl cream. Note that mosquitoes here do carry dengue fever, an unpleasant viral infection that lasts for a couple of weeks and can be serious in the very young or old; and in 2014, there was an outbreak of another flu-like mosquito-borne virus, chikungunya, which also has the unpleasant side-effect of long-lasting joint pain. Neither has a vaccine, so best protection is to avoid getting bitten in the first place.
Another problem in the forests are chiggers, tiny mites whose bite leaves a very itchy and long-lasting red bump with a tendency to get infected; apply antiseptic regularly to keep the bite clean. Likewise, stings from hornet-like wasps (known as jackspaniards) are nasty but fairly harmless, though African bees are now common throughout Trinidad and are aggressive if disturbed; do not wear strong perfume in the bush and follow guides’ directions. Never kill a bee after having been stung, as this will cause it to emit a pheromone which attracts even more bees.
Though there are no deadly snakes in Tobago, Trinidad’s forests harbour four venomous varieties; the fer-de-lance and the bushmaster or pit viper (both known as mapepire, pronounced “mah-pee-pee”), and two species of brightly coloured coral snake. It’s best to wear long trousers, shoes or boots and socks when walking in the bush, and to refrain from investigating rock crevices with your bare hands. If you do encounter a snake, simply move it gently out of the way with a long stick. In the event of a bite, keep calm; death from a snakebite is almost unheard of here, and your worst enemy is panic. Bandage the affected area tightly (if the bite is on a limb, tie a tourniquet above it), note down what the snake looked like, and seek medical help – all local hospitals have stocks of the relevant antidote.
Endowed with sharp teeth and a bit of an attitude if cornered, barracuda are best admired from a distance, as are moray eels. Don’t stick your hand into rock crevices when diving or snorkelling, and never touch coral; quite apart from killing the organism with a caress, you’ll probably come away with an unattractive, slow-healing rash. A far more likely encounter is with one of the many spiny black sea urchins that inhabit reefs and bays; if you tread on one, remove as much of the spine as possible, douse the area in vinegar (or urine) and see a doctor; washing with vinegar is also the best way to treat jellyfish stings. Take care to avoid the long trailing tendrils of the purple Portuguese man-of-war, fairly common in the waters around Trinidad. Seek medical help if you’ve been stung, and don’t touch dead ones washed up on the beach, as they remain harmful.
Take care to avoid poisonous manchineel trees, easily identified with their wide, spreading crown of small, dark green leaves on long stalks and green flowers – the milky sap causes skin blisters. Though they’ve been removed from popular beaches and signs put up where they’ve been allowed to remain, some still grow in wilder coastal areas, and the incredibly poisonous fruit occasionally wash up on other stretches of sand.
Medical services
The main hospitals in Trinidad are Port of Spain General (169 Charlotte St t623 2951 or t623 2952) and Mount Hope in St Augustine (Eastern Main Rd t645 4673); there are also small hospitals in all the main towns, as well as the more efficient private establishment St Clair Medical Centre in Port of Spain (18 Elizabeth St t 628 1451 or t628 8615). Tobago’s new Scarborough General Hospital is at Signal Hill (t660 4744), and has an A&E department. For an ambulance, call t811.
You won’t have to pay for treatment at public hospitals, but will be charged a fee at Mount Hope and St Clair. Long waits and stretched facilities make it more sensible to plump for a private option, particularly as your insurance should cover costs. If you do find yourself in need of medical attention, remember that most insurance policies require you to pay up initially and retain the receipts.
Many pharmacies stock a modest range of herbal remedies and other alternative medicines, while some doctors can refer you to a reputable alternative health practitioner. Trinidad’s best homeopath is Harry Ramnarine, an ex-surgeon turned alternative practitioner, based at 403 Rodney Rd, Chaguanas (t665 8041). There’s also an excellent osteopath, Rajesh Dharrie-Mahraj, 14 Murray St, Woodbrook, Port of Spain (t624 2410).
Insurance
As Trinidad and Tobago’s public health system is pretty basic, you’ll want to seek private treatment should you fall ill, so it’s therefore essential that you take out travel insurance before entering the country.
A typical travel insurance policy provides cover for the loss of baggage, tickets and – up to a certain limit – cash or cheques, as well as cancellation or curtailment of your journey. Most of them exclude so-called dangerous sports: in Trinidad and Tobago this can mean scuba diving, windsurfing and hiking, though probably not kayaking; read small print carefully as coverage can vary wildly for similar premiums. Many policies can also be chopped and changed to exclude coverage you don’t need.
Internet
Almost all hotels and guesthouses in T&T have wi-fi these days (usually free), while the Rituals coffeeshop chain offers wireless hotspots, as do many cafés and bars. Internet cafés are also scattered around the islands.
For unlimited Wi-Fi on the go whilst travelling Trinidad and Tobago, buy a Skyroam Solis, which works in 130+ countries at one flat daily rate, paid for on a pay-as-you-go basis. You can connect up to five devices at once. Prices start from as little as €5 a day.
