Bloody Bay
The last accessible beach on the leeward coast before Charlotteville is Bloody Bay, roughly 2km beyond Parlatuvier and named after a battle between English soldiers and African slaves in 1771 that was fierce enough to turn the sea crimson with blood; Dead Bay River, which runs across the sand and into the sea, is named for the same event. The beach itself is fine brown sand, strewn with pebbles and driftwood and frequented by no one except the odd fisherman. From here, directly opposite the bay and clearly visible 5km out to sea, the Sisters Rocks form an attractive cluster of tiny, verdant islands; it’s also fun to explore the river which flows into the sea at the north end of the bay. The Tobago House of Assembly have constructed a string of luridly painted buildings on the beach which house changing facilities and a restaurant, but do detract a bit from the formerly unspoilt beauty of the place.
Castara
A picturesque fishing village, with terrific beaches and a laidback vibe that have made it increasingly popular with visitors, CASTARA is the busiest “resort” on this coastline – though don’t expect anything as packaged and touristy as Crown Point. Although the number of guesthouses has grown exponentially in recent years, Castara’s remote location has so far saved it from being eaten up by resort hotels, and there’s an appealingly harmonious balance between visitors and locals. Fishing remains the main earner, and the beach is one of the best places to participate in the pulling of a seine net, still in constant use by the posse of Rasta fishermen. The village abandons its languid air each August, when the beach is packed with revellers attending the Castara Fishermen’s Fete, one of Tobago’s biggest; the drinking, dancing, eating and swimming start at about midday and continue until well after dark.
To get your bearings before you enter the village proper from the west, pull up in the layby to the left just before the Northside Road makes its final steep descent – there’s a postcard-perfect view of the village and the main Big Bay beach, separated from the smaller Little Bay (also known as Heavenly Bay) by a rocky outcrop, and all framed by the lush green tips of the rainforest.
Englishman’s Bay
East of Castara, houses, shops and most of the traffic melt away, and the Northside Road is flanked by enormous tufts of whispering, creaking bamboo, broken occasionally to reveal marvellous jungle-clad hilly prospects. The next worthy beach, about 3km along the Northside Road, is Englishman’s Bay, hidden from the road by a thick cover of bush; look out for the blue and white sign, opposite a WASA building, marking a left-hand turn and the gravel track which leads to the beach’s small car park. Utterly ravishing and virtually undeveloped, the bay offers a perfect crescent of pure yellow sand, deep blue water and offshore reef – from the sea, the forested hillside appears completely untouched, as the bush drips right down to the sand. The bay remains delightfully remote, the quintessential “deserted beach” destination of many a pleasure boat cruise. For this reason, there have unfortunately been a few thefts from tourists at Englishman’s Bay; the crime and safety box, for some general advice when visiting Tobago’s more isolated beaches. There are no lifeguards here, but beach chairs can be rented from Eula’s.
Parlatuvier
The coast road climbs upward and inland east of Englishman’s Bay, passing through the diminutive community of Parrot Hall after about 3km before descending to reveal one of the most arresting views on the island: Parlatuvier is another crescent of pearly sand flanked by an absurdly pretty hillside scattered with palms, terraced provision grounds and ice-cream-coloured houses; you can get a great view over the village from the car park adjacent to the Glasgow Bar. The pier in the middle of the bay is testament to Parlatuvier’s dedication to fishing, as are the gulls that roost on the rocks at either side of the bay, patiently awaiting the return of the boats. Swimming here is a vigorous experience as waves are usually quite strong and the water deepens sharply from the sand; be careful as there is no lifeguard on duty, and what with the fishing paraphernalia, it’s not really a place to lay down a towel and sunbathe.
Top River Falls
Set up by enterprising locals, Top River Falls offers an easy-access cooldown. From the car park, a path winds down through frothy stands of bamboo to the river, from where it’s a five-minute walk along the bank to the waterfall, a three-tiered affair with two deep pools of clear, cold water. There are basic changing rooms at the bottom, and a couple of barbecue pits popular with local families who come and cook by the water. Soft drinks are available from the ticket booth at the entrance.
