North of Manila, Northern Luzon harbours some of the archipelago’s least-visited wildernesses, and offers thrilling outdoor adventures including whitewater rafting, trekking, surfing, spelunking and mountain biking. As well as its wonderful mountainous areas and volcanic landscapes, the region is home to some of the country’s best surf breaks, along with wild stretches of coast peppered with virgin beaches and emerald-green waters. It is also rich in culture, with a handful of beautifully preserved Spanish colonial towns lining the west coast. Inland are the heartlands of the central Cordilleras mountain range, where spectacular rice terraces lie enveloped in clouds of mist.
More than 100km off the northern coast of Luzon, and closer to Taiwan than the Philippines mainland, lie the remote, scattered islands of Batanes province with their unforgettable hills and wild rugged cliffs.
Along the west coast north of Subic, the Zambales coast is dotted with laidback resorts, while the Lingayen Gulf is the location of the Hundred Islands National Park – a favourite weekend trip from Manila.
the province of La Union draws visitors for its surfing. North of here is Ilocos Sur, known primarily for the old colonial city of Vigan, where horsedrawn carriages bounce down narrow cobblestone streets.
On the northwestern edge of Luzon are excellent beaches around Pagudpud. Northern Luzon’s east coast offers excellent surfing at Baler, while further north Palanan is the jump-off point for the barely explored Northern Sierra Madre National Park.
Despite the obvious appeal of the coast, for many visitors, the prime attraction in Northern Luzon is the mountainous inland Cordillera region, where highlights include the mountain village of Sagada with its caves and hanging coffins, and the stunning rice terraces around Banaue.
In the village of Kabayan, it’s possible to hike up to a couple of mountaintop caves to see ancient mummies. Kabayan also provides access to Mount Pulag, the highest mountain in Luzon.
© Shutterstock
These are the best things to do in Northern Luzon.
For experienced surfers, there are two breaks in Urbiztondo, one a beach break in front of the main huddle of resorts and the other the Monaliza point break at the northern end of the beach.
The best spot for beginners is the Cement Factory break in the nearby barangay of Bacnotan. The peak season is September to March; at other times there may be no waves but you can get significant discounts on accommodation.
The old town is characterized by its cobbled streets and some of the finest colonial architecture in the country, mixing Mexican, Chinese and Filipino features. Many of the old buildings are still lived in, others are used as curio shops, and a few have been converted into museums or hotels.
The attractions are within walking distance of one another, with Plaza Burgos the most obvious reference point, and, adding to the old-world atmosphere, some streets are open only to pedestrians – unusual in the Philippines – and romantic horse-drawn kalesas.
The area has become a favourite among Manila film crews; the Suba dunes to the south – close to the Fort Ilocandia resort – are where Oliver Stone shot segments of Born on the Fourth of July.
Gentle day-hikes are possible, particularly in the main tourist areas of Banaue and Sagada, but there are also plenty of two- or three-day treks that take you deep into backwaters.
Most of the best trails are around Sagada, Banaue, Bontoc, Tabuk and Tinglayan. In each of these towns, you’ll find a tourist office or town hall where someone will be able to help arrange guides.
Philippines rice terrace in Banaue © Leonid Andronov
The history of the Kabayan mummies is still largely oral. It is even uncertain when the last mummy was created; according to staff at the town’s museum, mummification was attempted most recently in 1907 but the wrong combination of herbs was used.
It’s possible that the last successful mummification was in 1901, of the great-grandmother of former village mayor Florentino Merino.
Be sure to visit Opdas Cave at the southern end of Kabayan village. It contains around two hundred skulls and bones estimated to be up to a thousand years old, discovered in a pile but now arranged.
Nobody knows why they were buried together, but one theory is that they died as a result of an epidemic.
The landscape here is almost alpine and the inhabitants are mountain people, their faces shaped not by the sun and sea of the lowlands, but by the thin air and sharp glare of altitude.
Sagada only began to open up as a destination when it got electricity in the early 1970s, and intellectuals – internal refugees from the Marcos dictatorship – flocked here to write and paint. They didn’t produce much of note - it's said that this is perhaps because they spent much of their time drinking tapuy (the local rice wine).
European hippies followed, as did the military, who thought the turistas were supplying funds for an insurgency. While the town doesn’t offer a lot to do, you’ll find plenty of activities in the surrounding area.
Hanging coffins, traditional way how to bury people, Philippines @ Tunature/Shutterstock
It is famous for its stunning rice terraces, which are often referred to as the "Eighth Wonder of the World." The terraces were built by the Ifugao people over 2,000 years ago and are still in use today for agriculture. Banaue is also home to several indigenous communities, and you can learn about their rich culture and traditions through various activities such as weaving workshops and cultural performances.
The town itself is small and quaint, but there are several accommodations available for visitors who want to explore the area.
Resorts around Pagudpud are a little pricier than similar establishments elsewhere. It’s always worth asking for a discount. Budget travellers should consider a homestay behind the main resorts on Saud Beach.
Browse the best hotels in Northern Luzon.
Here are the best restaurants in Northern Luzon.
Vigan, Philippines © Daniel Andis/Shutterstock
For Pundaquit, buses stop at San Antonio, a short tricycle ride away (10min), while to get to the Botolan resorts you’ll have to catch a tricycle or jeepney (5min) from the spot on the main highway where buses drop you off. Regular local buses also connect all the towns along the coast.
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Saud Beach, Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte, Philippines © MDV Edwards/Shutterstock
Tuguegarao airport, 2km north of Tuguegerao Junction, is easily reached from town by tricycle (15min). It has daily flights to Manila, as well as Basco in the Batanes Islands.
Note that Cagayan North International Airport opened, 77km west of Santa Ana, has no scheduled passenger flights.
The wet season (May to October) can bring heavy rains and typhoons, which may affect your travel plans and cut off access to certain destinations.
If you plan to visit the Banaue Rice Terraces, the best time to go is between February and May when the terraces are lush green and the weather is generally good.
The summer months of April to June are also a great time to visit Northern Luzon for beach activities in Pangasinan and La Union.
For cultural experiences, you may want to visit during festivals such as the Panagbenga Festival in Baguio in February or the Kalinga Tattoo Festival in Kalinga in March.
Keep in mind that these festivals may attract large crowds, so book any accommodation ahead of your arrival.
Find out more about the best time to visit the Philippines.
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written by Rough Guides Editors
updated 24.03.2023
