Ouirgane
OUIRGANE is an up-and-coming destination due to its proximity to Marrakesh and its stunning greenery, red-earth hills and pine forests, all of which combine to make it worth an overnight stay (or longer). It’s a wonderful spot to rest up after a few days of trekking around Toubkal and makes a pleasant base in itself for day walks into the surrounding foothills, mountain-bike forays or horseback riding. The village hosts a small Thursday souk.
Both Ouirgane and the lush Marigha town and region heat up in the summer due to their indented position among the peaks, which means that while it’s cooler than Marrakesh, it’s still best to visit (or plan activities) here from March to May and mid-September to December.
Trekking in Ouirgane
Day treks in Ouirgane are best done with a guide. One recommended walk that you can request from a local expert is to start in Marigha, head south to the village of Marigha Izdern (1200m) and on to Imareghan Noufla (1220m), which has some of its stone olive oil presses still in use. From here, you’ll head onward to Tinzert; enjoy the view of the Takherkhourte Peak (2500m) in the distance. From Tinzert, continue to Tagadirt n’Ousni and the village of Tamgounssi and down to Asni for transport back to Ouirgane or to Marrakesh. The total walking time is four to five hours.
To Toubkal
At the time of writing, the National Park Office had nearly completed a five- to six-hour trail connecting Ouirgane to the Toubkal refuges, which then gives access to the summit. The trail is rated as moderate, is easier than the current established route from Imlil, and is sure to become a main thoroughfare once it is open to the public. For up-to-date information, ask at local hotels.
To the Azzadene Valley and Imlil
Walking from Ouirgane to Imlil is an overnight treat full of stunning views and steady climbing. From Ouirgane (or easily followed on the road connecting Imarira and Tassa Ouirgane), head east towards Tassa Ouirgane, where the well-trodden path will take you along the edge of the beautiful Azzadene Valley. When you reach Azerfsane, head south along the major river valley, Assif n’Ouissadene, finally connecting to the town of Aït Aïssa (Id Aissa) after five to six hours, which has a couple of small gîtes offering basic accommodation (50dh) and meals (50dh).
From Aït Aïssa, continue south to Tizi Oussem where you’ll change direction, heading east over Tizi Mzik, through Azib Mzikene, and finally into the Mizane Valley and on to Imlil. This second day’s walk also takes about five to six hours.
Biking the Marigha Circuit
Exploring the area around Ouirgane by bike is a great way to see more of this rich region via the backroads. One of the best circuits is the Marigha Ciruit, an 18km route that should take about three hours to complete.
Head southwest out of Ouirgane on the paved road to Taroudant. At a sign for Chez Momo II, take the left turn. Further, the paved entry becomes a gravel road as it heads uphill. Keep right and at the crest of the hill, you’ll have a superb view of the Ouirgane barrage.
The views of the Azaden Valley come into view as you continue uphill and the piste finally gives way to flat riding; continue along the same piste to the village of Agouni (which means hungry in the local dialect). The piste opens up at the edge of Agouni to an area once inhabited by a local Jewish population. The buildings are painted white (a rare feature, interpreted locally as holy ground), and the site comes to life every August for a private moussem celebration.
Behind the Jewish village, the piste splits – continue straight (slightly left) to stay on course. It’s possible here to detour up to the stunning village of Tikhfirst, 4km away, by turning right and following the piste steeply uphill – sublime views over the countryside await. Local families are known for their tea-making (tip 10dh per person), so this makes a nice point to refresh before heading back downhill.
Continue on the road past the Jewish settlement; within a few minutes you’ll reach the village of Anraz, where the piste becomes a smooth single-track trail. You’ll bike for a short distance through shady homesteads as the trail becomes a road again after half a kilometre at the village of Torrort. From here, take the piste downhill to cross the bridge over the Assif n’Ouissadene. Just after this point, there’s an intersection where you’ll see a sign for Takhrkhort National Park. Turn left here towards Tassa Ouirgane; a right turn will take you, a few minutes later, to some of the best views of the entire ride – from here, backtrack to take the parth to Tassa Ouirgane.
From the intersection, head north along the well-maintained road, which connects to the Taroudant and Marrakesh road after about five kilometres. Here, turn left to return back to Ouirgane.
Oukaïmeden
The village and ski centre of Oukaïmeden is a calmer and much easier trekking base when compared to Setti Fatma, especially in the summer and for those setting out towards Toubkal, and a good target in its own right. In summer, there are some attractive day hikes, and the chance to see prehistoric rock carvings, while in winter, of course, there is the chance to ski – and it’s hard to resist adding Africa to a list of places you have skied.
Skiing in Oukaïmeden
The slopes of Adrar-n-Oukaïmeden offer the best skiing in Morocco and boasts the highest ski lift in North Africa (3273m). It gives access to good piste and off-piste skiing, while on the lower slopes a few basic drag lifts serve nursery and intermediate runs. For cross-country skiers, several crests and cols are accessible, and ski mountaineers often head south to Tacheddirt.
Snowfall and snow cover can be erratic but the season is regarded as February to April; the lifts close at the end of April (even if there are perfect skiing conditions). Equipment can be rented from several shops around the resort, at fairly modest rates but quality fluctuates so ask around. Ski passes are cheap (around US$8), and there are modest charges if you want to hire a ski guide or instructor – ask at any of the shops (or talk with the managers at Chez Juju).
High Atlas wildlife
The High Atlas has unique flora and fauna, which are accessible even to the most reluctant rambler if you base yourself at Oukaïmeden, Imlil or Ouirgane.
The spring bloom on the lower slopes comprises aromatic thyme and thorny caper, mingling with golden spreads of broom. Higher slopes are covered by more resilient species, such as the blue tussocks of hedgehog broom. The passes ring to the chorus of the painted frog and the North African race of the green toad during their spring breeding seasons, while some species of reptile, such as the Moorish gecko, have adapted to the stony walls of the area’s towns and villages. Butterflies that brave these heights include the Moroccan copper and desert orange tip, and painted ladies heading from West Africa to western England. Other inhabitants include the almost invisible praying mantis, the scampering ground squirrel and the rare elephant shrew.
Birds to be found among the sparse vegetation include Moussier’s redstart and the crimson-winged finch, which prefers the grassy slopes where it feeds in flocks; both birds are unique to North African ranges. The rocky outcrops provide shelter for both chough and alpine chough and the rivers are frequented by dippers who swim underwater in their search for food. Overhead, darting Lanner falcon or flocks of brilliantly coloured bee-eaters add to the feeling of abundance that permeates the slopes of the High Atlas. In the cultivated valleys, look out for the magpie, which, uniquely, has a sky-blue eye mark; there are also storks galore. Other High Atlas birds, as the snow melts, include shore larks, rock bunting, alpine accentor, redstarts and many species of wheatear.
Local flora is impressive, too. The wet meadows produce a fantastic spread of hooped-petticoat daffodils, romulea and other bulbs, and Oukaïmeden in May/June has acres of orchids in bloom.
Prehistoric rock carvings in the Atlas
Some of the Atlas’s fascinating prehistoric rock carvings, depicting animals, weapons, battle scenes, an apparent game area, and various unknown symbols, can be found just before Oukaïmeden‘s ski area site – follow the sign pointing to “Gravures Rupestres.” It’s worth contacting local expert Hassan Hachouch (eagle_atlas@hotmail.com) for a trip to the carvings. He speaks French well with limited English, but is a valuable resoure nonetheless to point out some of the lesser-known carvings; a modest tip of 50–100dh is sufficient.
A new eco-museum near the carvings displays photos of the flora and fauna of the national park and surroundings, as well as information about the carvings themselves.
A puzzling related feature of prehistoric rock sites in the Atlas and elsewhere are cupmarks – groups of small circular hollows (Peter Ustinov suggested they were egg-cups) with no apparent pattern carved into exposed rock surfaces at ground level. Unlike the usual rock art, they appear in granite (in the western Atlas) and conglomerate (at Tinerhir) as well as sandstone (in the Middle Atlas).
Most of the rock carvings are depicted in the indispensable guidebook, Gravures Rupestres du Haut Atlas (on sale in the Oukaïmeden Club Alpin Francais chalet and in some Marrakesh bookshops), though it is only available in French.
Tizi n’Test
Tizi n’Test (2092m) is an awe-inspiring pass that crosses the Atlas and connects to Taroudant and Taliouine. Cutting right through the heart of the Atlas, the road was blasted out of the mountains by the French from 1926 to 1932 – the first modern route to link Marrakesh with the Souss plain and the desert, an extraordinary feat of pioneer-spirit engineering. Until then, passage had been considered impracticable without local protection and knowledge: an important pass for trade and for the control and subjugation of the south, but one that few sultans were able to make their own.
The Tizi n’Test (2092m) itself becomes truly momentous 18km before it connects to the N10 – a rather torturous stretch filled with hairpin bends. A lovely, yet challenging drive, it’s one of the more scenic jaunts in the whole country, giving way to unmatched panoramas that serve as a splendid gateway to the Souss region of the country.
Over the Tizi n’Test pass, the descent towards the Taroudant–Taliouine road is dramatic: a drop of some 1600m in little over 30km. Throughout, there are stark, fabulous vistas of the Tizi n’Test mountains jutting out around the Nfiss Valley with clusters of villages in view hundreds of feet below.
Trekking the Tichka Plateau
Exploring the Tichka Plateau and the western fringes of the Atlas, you move well away from established tour-group routes and pass through Berber villages that scarcely ever see a foreigner. You’ll need to carry provisions, and be prepared to camp or possibly stay in a Berber village home if you get the invitation – as you almost certainly will. Sanitation is often poor in the villages and it’s a good idea to bring water purification tablets. Eating and drinking in mountain village homes, though, is surprisingly safe, as the food (mainly tajines) is thoroughly cooked and the drink is invariably mint tea.
However you approach it, the Tichka Plateau is a delight. Grazing is controlled so the meadows, in spring, are a mass of early daffodils and flowers. Imaradene (3351m) and Amendach (3382m) are the highest summits, west and east, and are superlative viewpoints. The plateau is drained by the Oued Nfis, first through the Tiziatin oak forest, using or bypassing gorges, then undergoing a series of villages, one of which, another Imlil, has a shrine to Ibn Toumert, the founder of the Tin Mal/Almohad dynasty.
Approaching and exploring the plateau
There are approaches to the mountains from both north and south: Imi n’Tanoute, Timesgadiouine and Argana, on the main Marrakesh–Agadir bus route (north and west), and Taroudant–Ouled Berhil (south) or the Tizi n’Test road (east). From the north and west approaches, taxis, or rides on trucks bound for mines or markets at trailheads, could be used; from the south, smaller pick-up trucks (camionettes) ply up daily to Imoulas, the Medlawa Valley and Tigouga. For eastern access by the Oued Nfis, take the piste down from the Tizi n’ Test and follow up the south bank of the river.
If you can afford it, hiring Land Rover transport to take you, and possibly a guide, to meet prearranged mules and a muleteer is the most efficient procedure. El Aouad Ali in Taroudant is the recognized expert on the region and could make all arrangements. Or you could arrange a small group trek through the UK-based trekking company Walks Worldwide, who organize all levels of treks with El Aouad Ali. The IGN 1:100,000 maps for the area are Tizi n’Test and Igli.
The Toubkal Massif
The Toubkal Massif, enclosing the High Atlas’s highest peaks, is the target destination of nearly everyone who goes trekking in Morocco. You can reach trailhead villages in just two hours from Marrakesh, and the main walking routes are easily followed. Walking just a short distance from the most common starting point – Imlil – you are transported to a very different world. Mountain villages offer a stark contrast to the previous roadside towns, with Berber houses, stacked one on top of another in apparently organic growth, appearing to sprout from the rocks. The local population is immediately distinct from their city compatriots; the women dress in brilliant attire even when working in the fields.
In summer, Jebel Toubkal (4167m), the highest peak in North Africa, is walkable right up to the summit; if you’re pushed for time, you could climb it and be back in Marrakesh in three days – though at some risk of altitude sickness. Alternatively, if you feel unable to tackle an ascent of Toubkal, it’s possible to have a genuine taste of the mountains by spending time exploring the lesser-visited valleys accessible from Imlil or Aroumd.
Aroumd
AROUMD (also called Armed or Aremd) is the largest village of the Mizane Valley, an extraordinary looking place, built on a huge moraine spur above the valley at 1840m. Steep-tiered fields of potatoes, onions, barley and various kinds of fruit line the valley sides, their terraces edged with purple iris. The village is used as a base or overnight stop by a number of trekking companies, and several houses have been converted to well-equipped gîtes.
Climbing Toubkal
Most trekkers leaving Imlil are en route for the ascent of Jebel Toubkal – a walk rather than a climb after the snows have cleared, but serious business nonetheless. The route to the ascent trailhead, however, is fairly straightforward, and is enjoyable in its own right, following the Mizane Valley to the village of Aroumd, 4km from Imlil. From here, it’s one and a half hours min to the pilgrimage site of Sidi Chamarouch followed by another four to five hours to the Toubkal refuges (3208m; 12km from Imlil; 5–7hr in all; 100dh), which lie at the foot of Toubkal’s final slopes.
Most trekkers head to the refuges early to mid-morning in order to stay the night. Then, you’ll have a fresh start at first light the next morning for the ascent of Toubkal, which will allow for the clearest panorama from the peak – afternoons can be cloudy. Arriving at the Toubkal refuge early in the day also gives you time to acclimatize to the altitude and rest: many people find the hardest part of the trek is the last hour before arriving at the refuges, so it’s important to take it easy.
To the summit
At the Toubkal refuges you’re almost bound to meet people who have just come down from the mountain – and you should certainly take advantage of talking to them and the refuge gardiens for an up-to-the-minute description of the routes and the state of the South Cirque (Ikhibi Sud) trail to the summit. If you don’t feel too confident about going it alone, take a guide – they are usually available at the refuge – but don’t let them try to rush you up the mountain. It’s best to take your time allowing your body to acclimatize slowly to the altitude changes (see Atlas trekking practicalities).
The South Cirque (Ikhibi Sud) gives the most popular and straightforward ascent of Toubkal and, depending on your fitness, should take between two and a half and three and a half hours (2–2hr 30min coming down). There is a worn path, which is easy enough to follow. More of a problem is finding the right track down through the upper slopes of loose scree. Take your time coming down since it can be rough on the knees.
The trail begins above the Toubkal Refuge, dropping down to cross the stream and then climbing again to reach the first of Toubkal’s innumerable fields of boulders and scree. These are the most tiring (and memorable) features of the trek up, and gruelling for inexperienced walkers. The summit, a sloping plateau of stones marked by a tripod, is eventually reached after the serpentine path brings you to the spectacular southern cliffs. It should be stressed that in winter even this easiest of routes is a snow climb and best for experienced hikers or those climbing with a guide. Slips can and have had fatal consequences. If you are properly equipped, check out the start the night before, and set off early. Ice axes and crampons are essential in icy conditions and should be brought along with you. This is also a splendid ski route.
An alternate ascent – though longer (4hr 30min) and best for more experienced climbers – is the North Cirque (Ikhibi Nord). En route you will pass the remains of an aircraft that crashed while flying arms to Biafra, and the cairn of the small peak of Tibherine dominating the valley is actually one of its engines. The final ridge to the summit area calls for some scrambling. You should descend by the South Cirque back down to the refuges.
The Grand Toubkal Loop
The Grand Toubkal Loop takes four to five days and makes a satisfying (and very scenic) addition to the ascent of Toubkal. From the Toubkal refuges, the loop heads south to scenic Lac d’Ifni, then north to Azib Likemt and Tacheddirt, before returning to Imlil. The walk isn’t particularly strenuous and can be done by most fit walkers. For the first part of the walk, be sure to carry plenty of water and enough food for up to two to three days since there are no reliable facilities until you get past Lac d’Ifni. The walk is best done from June to mid-October; in the winter the passes of Tizi n’Ouanoums (3600m) and Tizi Likemt (3500m) can be closed with deep snow. Those with hefty mountaineering experience, proper equipment of crampons, ropes, ice axes (and satellite phone) can attempt the trek without much issue.
Imlil
IMLIL is currently the most frequented starting point for those going up to the top of Toubkal. Just past Asni, the road begins to climb; below it the valley of the Oued Rhirhaia unfolds, while above, small villages crowd onto the rocky slopes. Halfway up the valley, at a roadside café, there is a sudden good view of Toubkal. As you emerge at Imlil the air feels quite different – silent and rarefied at 1740m. Paths head off in all directions among the valleys, making this region a walker’s paradise.
Imlil is little more than a roadside settlement, with shops and plenty of small guesthouses and hotels along the main thoroughfare. It’s a good spot to get supplies, hire a guide, or spend the night to get your bearings in the region. It’s not worth spending much more than one day here, however, given the much more appealing villages that are scattered just beyond it.
If you want to make an early start for the Toubkal refuges and the ascent of Toubkal, Imlil village makes a better trailhead than Asni, as is Aroumd; it’s possible to make it to the basecamp from Imlil in one day.
Trekking in Toubkal National Park
The valleys of Asni, Imlil (along the Mizane Valley), Tacheddirt (Imenane Valley) and Tizi Oussem/Ouirgane (Azzadene Valley) offer fine walks, which you might consider doing to acclimatize yourself before tackling Toubkal or other high peaks. They are all much easier if you walk them downhill.
From late spring to late autumn, the region’s trails are accessible for any reasonably fit walker. Mule tracks that allow one to navigate around the mountain valleys are well contoured and are usually in excellent condition. Additionally, there’s a network of village gîtes, houses and CAF refuges (small huts) for accommodation, which generally makes camping unnecessary unless you’re traipsing far away from the villages.