Travel advice for Greece
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Greece sits at a historic crossroads — where Europe, Asia and Africa meet — and it’s been both a prize and a battleground for centuries. The country’s taken its fair share of knocks, but it’s also shaped the world in big ways. Democracy, drama, philosophy, science, sculpture — you name it, the ancient Greeks got there first. And in more recent decades, their economic experiments have made headlines for better or worse.
Humans have lived in Greece for hundreds of thousands of years. A Neanderthal skull found in the Petralóna Cave, near Thessaloníki, comes with the earliest evidence of fire use in Europe. But Homo sapiens didn’t arrive until about 40,000 years ago, hunting and gathering in regions like Epirus.
During the Ice Age, people still held on, but after 10,000 BC, as the climate warmed, life in Greece began to change fast.
By 6500 BC, people in northern Greece were farming. It’s unclear whether they learned it locally or from newcomers, but either way, it transformed life. Food security meant permanent homes — mud-brick houses on stone foundations.
Around 3000 BC, settlers in the Cyclades — likely from Asia Minor — brought bronze technology. They kept trading obsidian but added tin and set sail as far as Spain.
Bronze tools and weapons soon replaced stone across Greece. By 2500 BC, the Aegean had become a vital trade route between Europe and the East.
Around 2100 BC, something changed. Mainland settlements were destroyed, and new pottery appeared. Archaeologists believe Greek-speaking people had arrived.
Development stalled for centuries — but a new era had begun.
In the second millennium BC, two cultures shaped the Aegean: the Minoans of Crete and the Mycenaeans of mainland Greece. For centuries, they weren’t rivals so much as partners, with the Minoans leading the way.
Crete thrived thanks to trade. Its central location between Greece and Egypt — and its fertile land and natural harbors — turned it into a Bronze Age powerhouse. Minoans exported oil, wool, pottery and timber, especially to Egypt. Their signature ceramic style, Kamares ware, has turned up everywhere from Rhodes to Syria.
Around 1500 BC, control of Knossós passed to the Mycenaeans. How? No one knows for sure. A natural disaster — possibly the Thera (Santoríni) eruption — might’ve helped tip the balance.
Greek became the language of palace records, written in a script called Linear B — the earliest known form of Greek. The Mycenaeans took over Minoan trade routes and ruled the Aegean for three centuries. Their power peaked with the legendary sack of Troy around 1220 BC.
Then it all collapsed.
Around 1200 BC, waves of northern invaders — possibly driven by drought and famine — swept across the eastern Mediterranean. Trade routes vanished. Palaces fell. Greece entered a centuries-long Dark Age, and the stories of Minoan and Mycenaean glory slipped into myth.
After the collapse of Mycenaean civilization, Greece slipped into a Dark Age. Trade dried up, writing disappeared, and poverty spread. But people kept moving.
Athens, unusually, escaped destruction. It stayed connected to the outside world and introduced iron-working to the mainland around 1100 BC. New pottery styles like the intricate Geometric style also emerged, laying the groundwork for later Greek art.
From the 8th century BC, the Phoenicians reconnected the Aegean with the wider Mediterranean. Greeks quickly followed. With trade booming again, the Greek world evolved fast.
The city-state — or polis — was Greece’s defining invention. Faced with rising populations and limited farmland, independent communities formed, ruled by local elites but tied together by trade, religion and eventually, shared ideas of citizenship.
From 750 BC, Greeks colonized Sicily, southern Italy, and later the Black Sea coast. Cities like Corinth and Chalkis led the charge west; Ionian Greeks pushed east. Colonists were often banned from returning — this was a one-way trip.
At home, social pressure led to change. The rich ruled, but the rest paid the price. Reform came, sometimes through democracy, more often through tyrants — strongmen like Peisistratos in Athens, who built temples, created jobs, and kickstarted drama festivals.
Greece was ready for something bigger. Enter: the Classical Age.
Athenian democracy wasn’t for everyone. Out of a population of around 400,000 in Attica, only 45,000 adult male citizens could vote or hold office. The rest were women, foreigners, and about 80,000 slaves. Still, for those inside the club, it sparked an explosion of energy, ambition and creativity that turned Athens into the beating heart of the Greek world.
It started with a fight. When Ionian Greeks in Asia Minor rebelled against Persian rule, Athens and Eretria backed them. In retaliation, Darius of Persia sent troops, only to be defeated at Marathon in 490 BC. A decade later, his son Xerxes returned with a massive invasion force — bridges of boats, canals through peninsulas, and an army drawn from 46 nations.
Themistocles, Athens’ sharpest mind, realized their best hope was at sea. He built up the navy and transformed Piraeus into a proper harbor. In 480 BC, the Greeks lured the Persian fleet into the narrow straits of Salamis and crushed it. A year later, they won again at Plataea. The Persian threat was over.
Victory brought prestige, but also power. Many Greek city-states joined the Delian League, set up to defend against Persia. Athens took control, moving the League’s treasury from Delos to the Acropolis — and turning an alliance into an empire.
Sparta, slow and cautious, didn’t keep up. It had land power, but no navy and no interest in empire-building. Athens, meanwhile, was riding a wave of wealth and confidence.
Pericles, elected general in 461 BC, became the face of Athenian ambition. He pushed through reforms, championed the arts, and led the rebuilding of the Acropolis, including the Parthenon. He funded festivals and drama competitions, and under his leadership, Athens became the cultural capital of the Greek world.
But there were cracks. Pericles refused to extend Athenian citizenship to allies, and Athens kept tightening control over its empire. What began as mutual defense turned into domination. Some states rebelled. Others, like Sparta, grew uneasy.
Still, it was a golden age — of philosophy, architecture, theatre, and power. Herodotus wrote his histories. Aeschylus staged The Persians. Democracy flourished — at least for citizens — and Athens seemed invincible.
But Greece wasn’t unified. Rivalries between city-states festered beneath the surface. And in 431 BC, it all boiled over. Athens and Sparta went to war — a long, grinding conflict that would bring the Golden Age crashing down.
The Peloponnesian War (431–404 BC) wasn’t just Athens vs. Sparta — it was Athens vs. its commercial rivals, Corinth and Aegina, with Sparta eventually pulled in. Athens relied on its navy and walls to avoid land battles, while launching raids along the Peloponnesian coast. Sparta’s strength was its army, but it lacked the ships to cut Athens off from trade.
As long as Athens controlled the sea, it held the upper hand. But Pericles’ death in 429 BC left the city politically divided. Then came disaster: a failed invasion of Sicily in 415 BC. Athens lost its fleet — and its grip on power.
Sparta won the war, but made for a poor overlord. It lacked Athens’ vision and faced constant resistance. Meanwhile, Athens bounced back economically, rebuilding its navy and remaining a major trading power.
In the chaos that followed, no one city-state could dominate. Thebes briefly rose under the general Epaminondas, defeating Sparta in 371 BC. But after his death, Theban power faded too.
Years of war had drained Greece. City-states were poorer, weaker, and less willing to unite. The polis had lost its political and moral weight.
Then came Macedon.
In 338 BC, Philip II of Macedon defeated the Greek city-states at Chaeronea. The age of small, independent city-states was over. Greece was about to be ruled by kings — and soon, by one king in particular.
For much of Greek history, Macedonia was a political backwater. Many Greeks didn’t even consider Macedonians truly Greek — they spoke a different dialect, lived in tribes, and followed kings instead of forming city-states. To Athens and others, they were closer to barbarians than to fellow Hellenes.
That changed with Philip II. Taking the throne in 359 BC, he set out to reform Macedonia — militarily and culturally. He adopted Greek customs, brought thinkers like Aristotle to his court in Pella, and built an army unlike any Greece had seen.
In 338 BC, Philip crushed Athens and Thebes at the Battle of Chaeronea, using the Macedonian phalanx — infantry armed with the sarissa, an 18-foot spear, moving as one disciplined unit. The phalanx pinned enemies in place while cavalry delivered the final blow. Greece was unified — by force.
Philip planned to invade Persia next, but was assassinated in 336 BC. His son Alexander, just 20, took the reins — and the plan.
Crossing the Hellespont in 334 BC with 30,000 infantry and 5,000 cavalry, Alexander launched one of history’s most successful military campaigns. Within six years, he had taken the Persian capitals of Babylon, Susa and Persepolis. In Egypt, he was crowned pharaoh. At Ecbatana, he found King Darius III dead, betrayed by his own men. Alexander buried him with royal honors — and declared himself ruler of Asia.
At just 26, Alexander had conquered an empire stretching from Greece to India. And he wasn’t finished yet.
Alexander didn’t stop with Persia. He kept going — into Central Asia, across the Hindu Kush, and deep into the Indian subcontinent. In 326 BC, he defeated King Porus at the Battle of the Hydaspes, but by then his army had had enough. After eight years of nonstop campaigning, they refused to march any further east.
Forced to turn back, Alexander returned to Babylon in 324 BC, still planning future conquests — including an invasion of Arabia. But in June of the following year, just shy of his 33rd birthday, he fell ill and died. The cause remains a mystery — malaria, typhoid, or poison have all been suggested. What’s certain is that he left behind no clear heir, just a power vacuum and an empire too vast to govern.
When asked who should succeed him, Alexander reportedly replied, “To the strongest.” His death sparked the Wars of the Diadochi — a decades-long struggle between his top generals. The fighting was brutal, and unity was out of the question.
The empire splintered, but the world Alexander reshaped endured. Greek language, culture and trade now stretched from Egypt to the Indus Valley. Greek cities dotted foreign lands, and Greek ideas took root far beyond the homeland.
What followed wasn’t a collapse — but a transformation. The Hellenistic Age had begun.
Alexander’s death left his empire leaderless and overextended. His top generals — known as the Diadochi — turned on each other, each trying to carve out their own kingdom. The dream of a unified empire collapsed in a matter of years.
In Greece, Athens saw a chance to break free and led a revolt against Macedonian control. But it misjudged the situation. Macedonia’s new rulers had inherited not just land, but a formidable navy. The Athenian fleet was crushed, Piraeus blockaded, and a pro-Macedonian government installed. Athens was finished as a naval power.
Still, the Greeks weren’t isolated — they were now part of something much larger. The Hellenistic world stretched from the Adriatic to the Indus, united more by culture than conquest. Greek became the common language of trade, science and politics. Greek settlers spread through Egypt, Persia and Central Asia. Greek architecture, sculpture and theatre appeared far beyond the homeland.
Out of the Diadochi wars, three major kingdoms emerged:
Greece itself was no longer the center of power. The city-states continued to trade and flourish culturally, but big decisions were made elsewhere.
Then Rome arrived.
After siding with Hannibal, Philip V of Macedonia found himself facing Roman legions. In 197 BC, Rome defeated him at Cynoscephalae in Thessaly. Greek autonomy was slipping away — for good.
Rome admired Greek culture — its art, philosophy, and literature shaped Roman life. When Rome first arrived in force, it played the role of respectful guest, granting Greek city-states autonomy after defeating Macedonia in 146 BC.
But the goodwill didn’t last. After a few too many uprisings, Rome lost patience. Greece was divided into provinces and absorbed into the empire. From then on, its fate was tied to Rome’s.
In the first century BC, civil war tore through the Roman world — and Greece became a battlefield.
That last victory gave rise to the Roman Empire — and in the east, it remained largely Greek-speaking.
By the first century AD, Greece was a Roman playground. Wealthy Romans came to Athens and Rhodes to study rhetoric and philosophy. They toured ancient temples and watched the still-running Olympic Games. When Emperor Nero visited in AD 67, he even competed — falling off his chariot and still being declared the winner.
In 267, the Heruli, raiders from southern Russia, swept into Greece. They torched Athens, stripped its temples and forced the city to rebuild tighter walls around the Acropolis. The ruins of the Agora were left outside.
Elsewhere, trade slowed and populations declined. Only cities along the Via Egnatia, like Thessaloníki, stayed prosperous.
Greece was still standing — but its glory days were fading fast.
In 330 AD, Emperor Constantine moved the Roman capital to Byzantium, renaming it Constantinople (modern Istanbul). Strategically placed between Europe and Asia, it controlled trade between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean and guarded the eastern frontiers.
Constantinople became a Christian city from day one. Constantine legalized Christianity and, within a century, it was the official state religion. Pagan traditions collapsed:
In 395, the Roman Empire officially split. The Western half fell soon after; the Eastern (Byzantine) Empire survived, Greek-speaking and Christian.
Outside the big cities, though, Greece became increasingly provincial. A plague in the late 500s devastated Athens and Corinth. People fled to hilltops and islands. Only Thessaloníki recovered fully.
From the 7th century, Islamic forces pushed into Byzantine lands:
In desperation, Byzantium turned to the West for help — triggering the Crusades. But help came at a price. In 1204, Crusaders sacked Constantinople, dividing Greece into Latin feudal states and Venetian colonies.
The real end came with the rise of the Ottoman Turks:
The Byzantine Empire was no more. After a thousand years, Greece entered a new age — this time under Ottoman control.
By 1460, most of Greece had fallen to the Ottomans. Only a few areas remained under Western control: Rhodes (held by the Knights of St John), some Venetian ports in the Peloponnese, and islands like Crete, Évvia, and Corfu. But one by one, these too were lost. The Knights were driven from Rhodes in 1522, and the Venetians lost their mainland possessions soon after. Only Crete held out — until 1669.
Greeks call this period sklaviá (“slavery”), but the reality was more complex. In exchange for taxes and loyalty, the Ottomans let Greeks keep their religion and run many of their own affairs.
In 1570, the Ottomans brutally seized Cyprus, sparking outrage across Europe. A year later, a Christian fleet led by Don John of Austria crushed the Ottomans at the Battle of Lepanto, off western Greece. The victory was symbolic — it didn’t halt Ottoman dominance, but it did inspire Philhellenism, the romantic ideal of rescuing Greece, birthplace of European culture.
By the 18th century, Greek islanders in Ýdhra, Spétses, and Psará had built powerful merchant fleets. Greek traders and officials thrived across the empire. But peasants still suffered under heavy taxes and religious discrimination. Tensions simmered.
The stage was set for revolution.
The Greek War of Independence was fueled by ideas born outside Greece. In merchant colonies across France, Italy, Austria and Russia, educated Greeks had absorbed European nationalism and revolutionary ideals. In 1814, they formed a secret group — the Filikí Etería (Friendly Society) — to plan a rebellion.
But when war broke out in spring 1821, the ideology of the diaspora met the fury of the peasantry. Rural Greeks saw the struggle not as a fight for democracy, but for revenge. Armed with scythes, muskets and clubs — and often led by priests — bands of fighters massacred the Muslim population across the Peloponnese and central Greece. Early rebel flags showed a cross over a severed Ottoman head.
Greek aims were far from united. Landowners wanted power. Peasants wanted land. Exiles wanted a nation-state. Still, by 1823, things were going well. Two Ottoman invasions had failed. Theodoros Kolokotronis, a guerrilla commander from the Peloponnese, led key victories. European volunteers — Philhellenes — also joined, most famously Lord Byron, who died of fever at Mesolóngi in 1824.
Then in 1825, Egypt sent troops to crush the revolt. Greece was on the brink. But Byron’s death stirred sympathy abroad, and by 1827, Britain, France and Russia sent a fleet. At Navaríno Bay, an accidental clash turned into a decisive battle — the Ottoman fleet was destroyed.
In 1830, Greece was recognized as an independent state. Final borders, drawn in 1832, included Attica, the Peloponnese, and some islands — but left most Greeks still under Ottoman rule, including those in Crete, Macedonia, Epirus, and Thessaly.
Modern Greece was born in 1832, weak and under foreign control. After President Ioannis Kapodhístrias was assassinated, the Great Powers (Britain, France, Russia) placed Otto of Bavaria on the throne and named Athens the new capital.
Otto ruled autocratically, ignoring landless peasants and staffing his government with Germans. He was overthrown in 1862, and replaced by George I of Denmark, who brought limited reforms. In 1864, Britain handed over the Ionian Islands, expanding Greek territory.
Greece’s foreign policy was driven by the Megáli Idhéa — the ambition to unite all Greeks and reclaim lost Byzantine lands.
Venizelos wanted to join World War I on the Allied side to claim more Greek lands. But King Constantine I, married to the German Kaiser’s sister, refused. Greece split in two: Venizelos set up a rival government in Thessaloníki. In 1917, the Allies backed Venizelos, and Greece joined the war.
At Versailles, Venizelos won approval to occupy Smyrna (modern Izmir). But in 1920, he lost re-election. Monarchists took over, and with Allied support fading, they pushed ahead with a risky military campaign into Asia Minor.
It ended in disaster. In 1922, Atatürk’s Turkish forces pushed the Greeks back to the coast. The army collapsed, Smyrna was torched, and thousands of Greeks and Armenians were massacred. This “Katastrofí” remains one of modern Greece’s darkest chapters.
The 1923 Treaty of Lausanne confirmed modern Turkey’s borders and forced a population exchange: 390,000 Muslims left Greece; 1.3 million Christian refugees flooded in. This reshaped Greece’s cities and economy, and forced long-overdue land redistribution.
In the political chaos that followed, King Constantine abdicated and six ministers were executed. Greece briefly became a republic, but military coups became the norm.
In 1935, a rigged plebiscite restored King George II, who appointed General Ioannis Metaxás. Amid strikes and communist unrest, Metaxás dissolved parliament in 1936, ushering in a fascist-style dictatorship. Opposition was crushed, unions banned, and propaganda ramped up — but unlike Mussolini, Metaxás refused to bow to Axis power.
When WWII broke out, Greece tried to stay neutral. But in October 1940, Italy delivered an ultimatum. Prime Minister Metaxás responded with a defiant “Ohi” (No) — now a national holiday. Greece pushed the Italians out and even advanced into southern Albania.
Humiliated, Hitler intervened. In April 1941, German forces invaded from Bulgaria. The British sent a small force, but within weeks, Greece was overrun. The royal family fled to Egypt. Metaxás had died earlier that year, leaving Greece without leadership.
The Axis occupation — German, Italian, and Bulgarian — was brutal. Half a million civilians died in the winter of 1941-42, mostly from starvation. Entire villages were wiped out in retaliation for resistance. In the north, the Bulgarians attempted cultural erasure in occupied Macedonia and Thrace.
Despite this, resistance flourished. The largest group, ELAS, was formed in 1941 and fought alongside its political wing, EAM. Led mainly by communists, they gained mass support, especially in rural areas. By 1943, they controlled much of the country and coordinated with British agents from the Special Operations Executive (SOE).
But Churchill feared postwar communist influence. He ordered British support shifted to right-wing groups like EDES, sidelining ELAS despite their success. When EAM leaders proposed a postwar coalition in 1943, King George — backed by Churchill — refused.
As the Germans retreated in 1944, ELAS briefly joined a unity government led by George Papandreou. But tensions exploded in December, when police opened fire on an EAM rally in Athens. Street fighting between ELAS and British troops devastated the capital. A ceasefire in February 1945 temporarily paused the violence.
However, postwar Greece remained deeply divided. Power was left in right-wing hands, former collaborators kept their posts, and leftists were purged. The KKE (Greek Communist Party) boycotted the 1946 elections, which returned the monarchy via a rigged plebiscite. By summer, civil war had resumed.
By 1947, civil war raged again. ELAS, rebranded as the Democratic Army of Greece (DSE), took to the mountains. The US replaced Britain as Greece’s main backer under the Truman Doctrine, pouring military aid into the royalist army.
King George died, replaced by his brother Paul, while US advisors trained the Greek army in counterinsurgency. The DSE held out in northern Greece near the Albanian border, but support faded fast. Stalin pulled out in 1948, and Tito closed the Yugoslav border in 1949.
Cut off and outgunned, the DSE collapsed. The KKE declared a “temporary” end to the civil war. It was, effectively, a defeat. Greece emerged battered — physically, politically, and socially — from a decade of war.
By 1950, Greece was a broken country. A decade of war had destroyed infrastructure, wiped out 12 percent of the population, and left deep political scars. Heavily reliant on American aid, Greece joined NATO and even fought in the Korean War. A US-backed electoral system kept the right in power for over a decade. Leftist parties were banned, thousands were imprisoned or exiled, and remote villages emptied as people migrated to Athens, Australia, or America.
In 1952, the Greek Rally party, led by General Papagos, won the first major postwar elections. After his death, leadership passed to Constantine Karamanlis, who brought limited political reform and economic growth, especially through trade with Germany.
Foreign policy was dominated by Cyprus. Greek Cypriots demanded énosis (union with Greece), sparking a violent campaign against British rule. Turkey opposed union, insisting the island should be returned to Turkish control if Britain withdrew. A 1959 compromise granted Cyprus independence but banned énosis.
At home, rising unemployment and US nuclear bases triggered protests. Suspected electoral fraud in 1961 led to mass unrest. Karamanlis resigned and went into exile in Paris.
In 1964, George Papandreou led the Centre Union Party to victory. He freed political prisoners and allowed exiles to return. But tensions with King Constantine II grew, especially over control of the army. Meanwhile, violence flared again in Cyprus between Greek and Turkish communities, drawing in NATO and the US.
As elections neared in 1967, a military coup pre-empted the vote. A group of low-ranking colonels seized power on April 21. The king attempted a counter-coup that December — it failed, and he went into exile.
The new regime declared itself the “Revival of Greek Orthodoxy”. Political activity was banned. Thousands of leftists were arrested, tortured or exiled. Censorship was so strict that even classical Greek tragedies were banned. In 1973, Colonel Papadopoulos abolished the monarchy and declared himself president.
Open resistance was rare — until November 1973, when students occupied the Athens Polytechnic. Tanks crushed the protest. Dozens were killed, possibly more. Papadopoulos was ousted by hardliner General Ioannides, head of the secret police.
The end came in 1974, when the junta backed a coup in Cyprus, toppling President Makarios. Turkey responded by invading and occupying 40% of the island. The Greek military mutinied, and the dictatorship collapsed.
Constantine Karamanlis returned from exile, brokered a ceasefire in Cyprus, and restored democracy. His New Democracy party won the 1974 election, with the new socialist PASOK, led by Andreas Papandreou, in opposition.
After the junta collapsed in 1974, Constantine Karamanlis returned from exile and led New Democracy to a landslide victory. He legalized the Communist Party (KKE), held a referendum that abolished the monarchy, and laid the foundations for democratic stability. In 1980, Karamanlis became president, and the following year, Greece joined the European Community.
In 1981, Andreas Papandreou and his PASOK party swept to power, ushering in a wave of reforms: indexed wages, civil marriage, and new equal rights laws. But promises of prosperity fell flat. High inflation, soaring debt, and low investment triggered a financial crisis. Ironically, it was the European Community — once vilified by Papandreou — that bailed Greece out, with strings attached. Austerity followed, and the once-radical PASOK turned increasingly autocratic.
Scandals, factionalism, and Papandreou’s flamboyant personal life eroded support. From 1989, PASOK and New Democracy alternated in power for the next two decades.
The 1990s brought political volatility and economic stagnation. Greece sided openly with Serbia during the Yugoslav wars, drawing criticism from NATO allies. At home, public frustration grew.
But the decade ended on a high. Inflation fell, Athens won the bid for the 2004 Olympic Games, and a major thaw in Greek–Turkish relations followed devastating earthquakes in both countries. Greece dropped its veto on Turkish EU candidacy, signalling a diplomatic reset.
Greece joined the eurozone in 2001, marking a new level of European integration. The 2004 Athens Olympics and an unexpected Euro 2004 football win lifted national morale. EU funds poured in and infrastructure boomed. But Greece’s economic data had been manipulated to meet eurozone criteria, and debt was already ballooning.
When George Papandreou returned as prime minister in 2009, he revealed the true state of the economy: €262 billion in debt and a deficit four times the eurozone limit. Austerity measures followed, triggering mass protests. After his resignation, a New Democracy-led coalition under Antonis Samaras took over in 2012, agreeing to more EU bailouts and harsher spending cuts.
In 2015, left-wing SYRIZA stormed to power under Alexis Tsipras, promising to end austerity. He held a referendum rejecting EU bailout terms — then accepted them anyway to avoid a financial meltdown. Despite this, he won re-election later that year. Meanwhile, the refugee crisis placed further strain on resources.
Disillusionment with austerity and higher taxes brought New Democracy back to power in 2019, led by Kyriakos Mitsotakis. His government imposed right-wing reforms, cracked down on strikes, and was praised for managing the Covid-19 pandemic.
Tourism boomed, unemployment dropped, and in 2023, The Economist named Greece “Country of the Year”. Mitsotakis won re-election in 2023, albeit with a reduced majority.
But in 2024, Greece was rocked by record heatwaves and wildfires, raising urgent questions about climate change and long-term sustainability.
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