From the riverside hamlet of ABERGWESYN, you can drive the quite magnificent winding thread of an ancient cattle-drovers’ road – the Abergwesyn Pass – up the perilous Devil’s Staircase and through dense conifer forests to miles of wide, desolate valleys where sheep graze unhurriedly. At the little bridge over the tiny Tywi River, a track heads south past an isolated, gas-lit hostel at DOLGOCH. Remote paths lead from the hostel through the forests and hillsides to the exquisitely isolated chapel at Soar-y-Mynydd and over the mountains to the next hostel at TYNCORNEL, five miles from Dolgoch.

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