Twenty kilometres east across the mountains, straggling along the side of a deep bay, STARI GRAD is more laid-back and family-oriented than Hvar Town, although it is getting gradually more popular with the yachting fraternity and can be quite lively in high season. The narrow streets of central Stari Grad are as atmospheric as anywhere in the Adriatic: a warren of low stone houses bedecked with window boxes, and narrow alleyways suddenly opening out onto small squares.

The fertile plain stretching south and west of Stari Grad has recently been added to the UNESCO World Heritage list, as it is one of the few places in Europe where the ancient Greek system of field division has been preserved almost unchanged. With olive groves and vineyards divided by a grid of dry stone walls and country lanes, it is easily explored on foot or by bike.

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