One of the best views of HVAR TOWN is from the sea, with its grainy-white and brown scatter of buildings following the contours of the bay, and the green splashes of palms and pines pushing into every crack and cranny. Once you’re on terra firma, central Hvar reveals itself as a medieval town full of pedestrianized alleys overlooked by ancient stone houses, providing an elegant backdrop to the main leisure activity: lounging around in cafés and watching the crowds as they shuffle round the yacht-filled harbour. As well as being the nearest thing Croatia has to the Côte d’Azur, Hvar Town is also very much a family destination, bringing both haute couture and howling kids to the animated korzo that engulfs the town at dusk. Hvar’s growing reputation for bars and clubs has led to an increase in the number of young-adult tourists, together with the drunkenness and dumb behaviour that goes with it – although it would be a mistake to think that the party scene has become the dominant influence on a town that retains a deep-rooted Mediterranean charm.

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