Squeezed among lumpish, vine-covered hills, the busy little town of KRAPINA, 65km north of Zagreb, has been propelled into the premier league of Croatian tourism thanks to the newly built Neanderthal Museum, a boldly contemporary collection whose visitor-friendly mix of archeology, science and natural history draws coach-loads of visitors from all over the country. The museum commemorates so-called “Krapina Man” (krapinski čovjek), a type of Neanderthal who lived in caves hereabouts some thirty thousand years ago. The bones of these hominids were excavated by Dragutin Gorjanović Kramberger in 1899 on Hušnjakovo hill, a short walk west of the town centre on the far side of the River Krapinica.

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