The Orthodox Cathedral and museum
The Orthodox Cathedral isa rather stark Neoclassical edifice built in 1840 featuring a fine Baroque tower. It is the resting place for several members of the mighty Obrenović dynasty, as well as Serbia’s greatest literary hero, Vuk Karadzić. Opposite, at Kralja Petra 5, stands the Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church, where a small collection of bejewelled Bibles and other gorgeously decorated paraphernalia is housed in the HQ of the Patriarchate.
Parliament Building
The Parliament Building (Skupština) has seen its fair share of drama. In October 2000, after Milošević tried to claw back the presidential election he’d lost, hundreds of demonstrators forced their way into the parliament building and threw fake ballot papers out of the windows as the building blazed inside. The Parliament was again the scene of protests after Kosovo’s declaration of independence in 2008.
Trg Republike and around
The main street leading south from Kalemegdan is Kneza Mihailova, a pedestrianized korzo (promenade) with narrow, pretty fronts. It becomes more commercialized and hulkish at its southern end as it approaches Trg Republike (Republic Square), the city’s main square. An irregularly shaped space, it’s dominated by the imperious National Museum (which has remained closed for years awaiting renovation), in front of which is a grand statue of Prince Mihailo on horseback – this is the traditional meeting place for Belgraders.
East of Trg Republike is Skadarlija, the former bohemian district that centres on charming, cobbled Skadarska. South of Trg Republike is the wide swathe of Terazije, which slices through the commercial and business hub of the city.
Zemun
If you’re after peace and quiet, head across the Sava River to New Belgrade and the west bank suburb of Zemun, a jumble of low-slung houses and narrow winding streets centred around the hilly waterside district of Gardoš, which holds the Baroque Nikolajevska Church, the city’s oldest Orthodox church.