The last sizeable village on the windward coast, SPEYSIDE is not as pretty as nearby Charlotteville, with just a thin slip of grey-sand beach, but then most people come here to explore the fantastic offshore reefs rather than to admire the scenery. Despite its emergence as a scuba-diving paradise and the easy accessibility of nearby reefs for some of the best snorkelling on the island, Speyside is a soporific kind of a place with a very end-of-the-road feel. The smattering of hotels seem to only ever have a couple of guests, with most of the activity confined to the dive shops and the tour buses that stop off at lunchtime to disgorge visitors at ever-popular Jemma’s restaurant.

Though Speyside itself isn’t particularly scenic, it’s hard not to be blown away by the amazing view from the lookout point on its western outskirts, just before the Windward Road descends into the village proper. This lofty spot affords a marvellous panorama of the village, the turquoise reef-studded waters of Tyrrel’s Bay and the emerald-green hillocks of Little Tobago and Goat Island, the former a renowned birdwatching spot. There’s good forest hiking to be had along Murchiston Trace, a tiny road that strikes off to the right from the Windward Road just before the Speyside lookout; ask in Speyside for a local guide.

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