The Windward Road strikes inland from Speyside’s eastern outskirts on its way from the Atlantic to the Caribbean coast, climbing steeply upwards through the island’s central spike before plummeting down to the opposite shoreline. Tobago’s most easterly portion of tarmac marks the last sign of “civilization”; northeast of here, the land is completely undeveloped, with no electricity or piped water for the hardy handful of small-scale farmers, bush hunters and fishermen who live here. Just before the descent to the Caribbean, there’s a signposted turn-off for Flagstaff Hill, with the paved road sweeping past some very fancy homes. At the crest of the hill, the road opens up to reveal a wide grassy area dotted with benches and overlooked by a lofty communications tower and mobile phone mast. The wind whistles through the metal and the views are absolutely superlative: Tyrel’s Bay, with Little Tobago and Goat Island to one side, and to the other, Man O’ War Bay, Booby Island, Cambleton Battery and, much further out, Sisters Rocks. This excellent vantage point was once used by British and French soldiers, who used mirrors to warn their colleagues stationed at Cambleton Battery below of an approaching ship.