Rugged and continually breathtaking, Tobago’s southern shoreline is usually referred to as the windward coast. It’s spanned by the narrow, winding Windward Road, which sticks close to the sea and provides fantastic views of choppy Atlantic waters and tiny spray-shrouded islands. The parade of languid coastal villages here is a complete contrast to the more developed southwest, and though there is the odd guesthouse on or around the main road, this isn’t the most enticing area to stay – tides and strong undercurrents make some of the most attractive-looking beaches unsuitable for swimming, and where they’re not, the often muddied water can be a bit off-putting. Nonetheless, the coastline between Scarborough and the King’s Bay, where the road swings inland on its way to Speyside does make for a fantastically scenic drive, with plenty of roadside bars and diners in which to stop off and have a beer or some lunch and one or two diverting attractions, the most popular of which is a tour and a taste of local chocolate at the gorgeous Tobago Cocoa Estate, followed by a refreshing dip at Argyle Waterfall, one of the prettiest in the island. Beyond Roxborough, the largest settlement on the windward coast, the road swings inland and upwards, swooping spectacularly down to the sea again at Speyside, best known for its fantastic snorkelling and scuba diving, and the only place on the coast with any kind of tourist development.

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