Roughly a kilometre past Turtle Beach, Grafton Road meets a junction: going straight will put you on Wilson Road to Scarborough, while to the left, a narrow bridge over the Courland River brings you to the outskirts of PLYMOUTH. Tobago’s first European community, Plymouth was settled by a group of roving Latvians, usually referred to as Courlanders, then by the Dutch and finally by the British. Today, it’s an attractive little town, predominantly residential, with neat board houses lining the grid-patterned streets and a handful of very low-key historical sights, including the so-called mystery tombstone, the grave of an African slave and her child, and Fort James, the oldest stockade in Tobago, dating from 1650, which commands an excellent view of Turtle Beach from the lawns in front.

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