The swaying palms and shaven greens of Tobago’s first golf course herald the outskirts of MOUNT IRVINE, the next coastal village north from Buccoo, a scattered community of luxury villas around the golf course that’s centred around its gorgeous main beach, home to Tobago’s surfing scene and one of the nicest spots in the southwest to spend a day by the sea. Beyond the golf course, the hitherto hidden Caribbean Sea coast swings spectacularly back into view; yachts bob on the waves and craggy volcanic rock formations bordering Booby Point make an arresting backdrop to the west. There’s a lovely section of undeveloped beach known as Grange or Mount Irvine Wall behind a low concrete bulwark just past the golf course; it’s very popular with locals who often sit chatting in the emerald-green water.

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