Some 200m north of the Store Bay turn-off, where Airport Road swings right to become Milford Road, the left-hand turn-off onto Pigeon Point Road leads to the spot where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Caribbean Sea. The shoreline here – unlike the majority of Tobago’s rugged beaches – is definitively Caribbean: powdery white sand with calm turquoise sea on one side and the ubiquitous swaying palms on the other. Lauded as the island’s best beach, Pigeon Point has shady picnic gazebos, shower blocks and a weathered wooden pier topped with a thatch-roofed hut that’s easily Tobago’s most photographed spot. The gentle shelf and tame currents make swimming benign, and there’s ample space on the sand to stake out your niche without feeling cramped – though it can get busy on a cruise-ship day. East around the headland, the wind whips over the Bon Accord Lagoon, providing a welcome respite from the steamy heat of the beach as well as ideal conditions for kite-boarding and windsurfing – there’s an outlet offering lessons and equipment rental. Close to the entrance, shops sell beachwear, clothes and souvenirs, while the two bars at each end of the beach are popular liming spots at sundown; like Sandy Point, the sunset views here are magnificent. A handful of food outlets sell inexpensive roti and other snacks, and a branch of Rituals/Pizza Boys dishes out iced coffees and pepperoni slices. If you want something more substantial, there’s a restaurant at the Bon Accord end of the beach selling Creole lunches.
Picturesque as it is, Pigeon Point is not without controversy. It was the first beach on Tobago (and still the only one) to charge an entry fee, much to the consternation of locals and the fishermen whose right to walk and fish freely from the beach has been curtailed. Equally, many bemoan the water quality, thanks to runoff from the area’s many hotels, and lack of water circulation following constriction of groynes.