Extending west from central Ubud, the hamlet of Campuhan is famous as the home of several charismatic expatriate painters, including the late Antonio Blanco, a flamboyant Catalan (“the Bali Dalí”) whose house and gallery on Jalan Raya Campuhan has been turned into the enjoyably camp Museum Blanco.

Across the road from here, the track that runs north along the grassy spine behind Pura Gunung Lebah forms part of the very pleasant ninety-minute circular Campuhan Ridge walk, taking you around the rural outskirts of Campuhan via the elevated spur between the Wos Barat and Wos Timor river valleys. You leave the ridge at the northern end of the village of Bangkiang Sidem, taking a sealed road that forks left and continues through Payogan and Lungsiakan before hitting the main road about 1.5km northwest of the Neka Art Museum.

The side road that turns off southwest beside Museum Blanco leads to the charmingly old-fashioned village of Penestanan, a centre for beadwork. The more scenic approach to the village is via the steep flight of steps 400m further north along Jalan Raya Campuhan. The steps climb the hillside to a westbound track that passes several arterial paths to panoramic hilltop accommodation before dropping down into the next valley and reaching a crossroads with Penestanan’s main street. Turn left for the 1500-metre walk through the village and back to Museum Blanco.

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