Teetering on the edge of the hills north of Jaipur is the dramatic Nahargarh, or “Tiger Fort”, built by Jai Singh II in 1734 and offering superb views of Jaipur, best enjoyed towards dusk. The fort’s imposing walls sprawl for nearly 1km along the ridgetop, although the only significant surviving structures within are the palace apartments, built inside the old fort by Madho Singh II between 1883 and 1892 as a love nest in which he kept his most treasured concubines away from the disapproving eyes of his courtiers and four official wives.

Vehicles can only get to the fort along a road that branches off Amber Road, a 15km journey from Jaipur. It’s simpler to walk to the fort along the steep path that climbs up from the north side of the city centre, a stiff fifteen to twenty-minute walk, although the path is a bit tricky to find, so you might want to take a rickshaw to the bottom. Try to avoid going up too late in the day or returning after dark – the fort is popular with delinquent teenagers and other unsavoury types, and the atmosphere can be a tad seedy at the best of times. There are a couple of cafés in the palace complex; the RSTC Padao Restaurant (see p.137) has the best views.

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