Not that the city is perfect: insensitive lakeside development, appalling traffic along the old city’s maze of tightly winding streets and vast hordes of tourists mean that Udaipur is far from unspoilt or undiscovered. Even so, it remains a richly rewarding place to visit, and although it’s possible to take in most of the sights in a few days, many people spend at least a week exploring the city and the various attractions scattered about the surrounding countryside.
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This is a city with an intricate sequence of ornately turreted and balconied palaces, whitewashed havelis and bathing ghats clustered around the waters of the lake. Or, in the case of the Lake Palace hotel and Jag Mandir, floating magically upon them.
North of the city are the historic temples of Nagada, Eklingji, Nathdwara and Kankroli. To the northwest, en route to Jodhpur, lie the superb Jain temples of Ranakpur and the rambling fort at Kumbhalgarh. Renting a car or motorcycle saves time, though local buses serve both routes.
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Jag Mandir Palace, Lake Pichola, Udaipur © Blue Sky Studio/Shutterstock
The lake’s two island palaces are among Udaipur’s most famous features, and each evening Sunset Point, near Amet Haveli, sees flocks of onlookers keen to snap the sun setting to the west. Boat rides around Lake Pichola depart from the jetty towards the south end of the City Palace complex, offering unforgettable views of the various palaces.
All trips stop at the Jag Mandir. Tours depart hourly on the hour; to make the most of them, sit on the side of the boat facing the palace (they usually run anticlockwise around the lake).
Unfortunately, as a security measure following the 2008 gun attacks in Mumbai, non guests can no longer visit the hotel. That is a shame as what has often been called the most romantic hotel in the world can now only be seen it as part of a boat ride around the lake.
Taj Lake Palace in Udaipur, Rajasthan state, India © Shutterstock
The young Shah Jahan once stayed here and was apparently so impressed by the building that he used it as one of the models for his own Taj Mahal, though it’s difficult to see the resemblance.
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A room off to one side is devoted to the exploits of Pratap Singh, one of Udaipur’s most famous military leaders.
From here, steps lead up to the pleasantly sylvan Badi Mahal (Garden Palace; also known as Amar Vilas after its creator, Amar Singh II, who reigned 1695–1755).
Its main courtyard is embellished with finely carved pillars and a marble pool, and dotted with trees that flourish despite being built some 30m above ground level.
From the Badi Mahal, twisting steps lead down to the Dilkushal Mahal, whose rooms house a superb selection of paintings depicting festive events in the life of the Udaipur court.
City Palace and tourist boat on lake Pichola. Udaipur, Rajasthan, India © Sean Hsu/Shutterstock
In a gallery overlooking the hall is the eccentric Crystal Gallery, housing an array of fine British crystal ordered by Sajjan Singh in the 1880s. It also features some outlandishly kitsch items including crystal chairs, tables and lamps – there’s even a crystal hookah and a crystal bed.
The extortionate entrance charge is a bit of a turn-off, though it does include an audioguide and non-alcoholic refreshments at the hotel’s Surya Dharshan Bar.
The Mewar sound-and-light show is held in Manek Chowk, and commentary is in English between September and April, and in Hindi for the rest of the year.
The circular mandapa leads to the sanctuary where a black stone image of Jagannath sits shrouded in flowers, while a small raised shrine in front of the temple protects a bronze Garuda. Subsidiary shrines to Shiva, Ganesh, Surya and Durga stand at each corner of the main temple.
Jagdish Temple, Udaipur, India © Shutterstock
The upper floors has several immaculately restored rooms with original furnishings and artworks, plus some fine murals. The lower floor has rooms full of puppets, women’s clothes, musical instruments, kitchen equipment and – the undisputed highlight – what is claimed to be the world’s largest turban. Traditional music and dance shows are staged here each evening.
Short, amusing puppet shows (tip expected) are staged throughout the day on demand. Well, the performers will probably hunt you down and drag you into the theatre shortly after your arrival. There are also two hour-long shows daily, with music, dancing and more puppets.
The walled gardens, attractive and formal, are centred on a peaceful courtyard enclosing a large pool. Behind this, four elephant statues surround Udaipur’s most striking fountain, a fanciful tiered creation that looks a bit like a huge, multicoloured cake stand.
Saheliyon-ki-Bari or Saheliyon ki Bari or Garden of the Maidens is a major garden in Udaipur in Rajasthan state of India © Shutterstock
East of the Dutch Tala Lake, a winding pathway provides an alternative ascent route used by pilgrims visiting the small hilltop Karni Mata temple; it’s a fairly gentle walk through pleasant scenery.
Around thirty replica houses and huts in traditional style are arranged in a village-like compound, with examples of buildings from various states. Musicians, puppeteers and dancers – hijras (eunuchs) among them – hang out around the houses and strike up on the approach of visitors (tip expected). You may also see people weaving, potting and embroidering as they would in their original homes – though most of the actual handicrafts on sale are fifth-rate, if that.
Unfortunately, the maharana’s untimely death the following year put paid to the planned observatory. Although the palace itself was finished by Singh’s successor, Maharana Fateh Singh, it was found to be impossible to pump water up to it, and the whole place was abandoned shortly afterwards.
The large though rather plain building is now a somewhat melancholy sight, but the views over Udaipur, more than 300m below, are unrivalled. The journey up to the palace takes a good fifteen minutes by taxi; really, the climb is too steep to tackle by bicycle, although some people try.
Sajjangarh Monsoon Palace Fort, Udaipur © Shutterstock
Most accommodation is found on the east side of Lake Pichola in the weaving alleyways that dot back from the water. Lake views costs more but many hotels further back do have rooftop restaurants.
There are a growing number of excellent places on the far more peaceful northwestern side of the lake, just across the bridge by Chand Pol.
Read more about best places to stay in India.
For other entertainment, Bagore-ki-Haveli has nightly dance performances, while Shilpgram often hosts out-of-town performers.
There are plenty of good places to eat near the majestic City Palace which are usually a cut above the rest. Situated near the renowned Jagdish Temple, is a vibrant hub of cafes and restaurants offering splendid views of Lake Pichola.
There are some great street food stalls serving local cuisine around Chandpol.
Pottery workshop in Shilpagram, Udaipur © Shutterstock
Udaipur's city centre is pedestrian-friendly, allowing visitors to explore many attractions on foot. Quick cheap and easy auto-rickshaws are to be found all across the city and are a good way of getting around the lake.
Taxi-hailing apps like Ola and Uber work in Udaipur with prices similar to those of auto-rickshaws. Metered taxis are slightly more expensive but more reliable too should you need them.
This period also coincides with Udaipur's festival season, including the Mewar Festival and Shilpgram Crafts Fair, adding to the city's vibrancy. But be warned: Udaipur can get crowded with tourists during peak season
With a couple of days, you can cover the major highlights and get a good sense of Udaipur's charm by wandering its backstreets and catching a dance performance in the evening.
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Trains pull in at Udaipur City station, southeast of the city centre. Services from Udaipur are surprisingly limited. Note that there are no direct services to Jodhpur; you’ll have to change at Kota (or take a bus).
Government buses leave from the main State Bus Stand at Udai Pol. Private buses depart from across City Station Rd, and are a better option for longer and (especially) overnight journeys.
Rough Guides tip: It’s easiest to book tickets for private buses through one of the many travel agents in town or, for ease, through your hotel/guesthouse.
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written by Andy Turner
updated 2.07.2023
