Animals – and especially pack animals – have a tough life in Morocco. The Society for the Protection of Animals Abroad (SPANA; w spana.org and w spana.org.ma), works throughout North Africa to improve conditions for working donkeys and horses, replacing painful, old-style bits, employing local vets and technicians and running animal clinics. There are SPANA centres in Tangier, Rabat, Casablanca, Marrakesh, Khémisset, Khenifra, Midelt, Had Ouled Frej (near El Jadida) and Chémaia (near Marrakesh); they also manage the birdwatching reserve at Sidi Bourhaba near Kenitra. All of these can be contacted or visited if you are interested or are concerned about animals you come across. The best initial contact address in Morocco is SPANA’s administrative office in Harhoura (t 0537 747209), 14km south of Rabat.