Morocco // Fez, Meknes and the Middle Atlas //

Walks around Sefrou

High enough into the Middle Atlas to avoid the suffocating dry heat of summer, Sefrou is a good base for some modest walking. Dozens of springs emerge in the hills above the town and a few waterfalls are active for part of the year.

Koubba of Sidi Ali Bou Serghine

For a relatively easy target, take the road up behind the Ville Nouvelle post office on Boulevard Mohammed V (Rue Sidi Ali Bou Serghine), which divides into a fork after about a kilometre. The right-hand branch leads to a small, deserted French fort, known as the Prioux, and to the koubba of one Sidi Ali Bou Serghine. The views from around here are thrilling: in winter, the snowcapped Mischliffen; in summer, the cedars and holm oaks cresting the ridges to infinity. You can also reach the koubba (and fort) by taking the left fork in the road that splits in front of El Kelâa, a ksar (fortified settlement) that’s quite interesting in itself and reached on Rue de la Kelâa, west of the sharp bend in the main road across the Oued Aggaï.

The waterfalls

Heading up Rue de la Kelâa from the main road and taking the right-hand fork in front of El Kelâa leads to a junction signposted “Cascades”, from where a single-lane tarmac road follows the river to a small hydroelectric power station; 250m beyond this, below imposing rocky outcrops, are the waterfalls, at their best in spring. Flash floods regularly wash away the path here, so repair work may bar your access to a pool beneath for a paddle.

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