With a reputed 250 hammams sprinkled across the city, Fez is one of the best places in Morocco to join the locals in a long, relaxing hot bath, with a rigorous scrub-down thrown in for good measure. If you’re unfamiliar with the routine, it is best, especially for women, to ask someone at your hotel to escort you. Don’t forget to take your towel, soap, shampoo (or ghasoul, the fine-mud alternative) and swimsuit (or change of underwear). Several upscale riads have their own hammams and spas, which are more luxurious and less daunting, but also much pricer and, at the end of the day, not quite the same experience.
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Hammam Aïn Azleten Talâa Kebira. In a convenient location between the Medersa Bou Inania and the fondouks on Talâa Kebira, Ain Azleten is one of the cleanest hammams in Fez; a scrub costs just 15dh. Men 6am–12.30pm & 9pm–midnight, women 12.30pm–midnight.
Hammam Sidi Azouz Talâa Seghira, opposite Hôtel Lamrani. Open later than most of the hammams In the Medina, and charging just 10dh (30dh for a massage). Men 6am–1pm & 10pm–2am, women 1–10pm.
Maison Bleue Spa and Hammam Riad Maison Bleue, 33 Derb el Miter, across the Aïn Azleten car park north of Talâa Kebira t 0535 741873, w maisonbleue.com. You know you’re in for a treat when the list of therapies includes a “Thousand Senses” steam bath and an orange-blossom massage. Hammam 400dh, treatments from 800dh.
Nausikaa Spa Av Bahnini, Route Aïn Smen t 0535 610006, w nausikaaspa.com. Marble-clad modern spa in the southern Ville Nouvelle, centred round a hammam, steam rooms and sauna, and offering massages, reflexology and various other treatments.
Spa Laaroussa Fes Riad Laaroussa, 3 Derb Bechara, off Talâa Seghira t 0674 187639, w spalaaroussafez.com. Detox amid the sublime surroundings of a sympathetically restored seventeenth-century bathhouse. Try a hammam and aromatic body scrub followed by a massage with essential oils (both 45min; 330dh).