Southern Morocco’s major tourist destination is Agadir, a winter beach resort for Europeans, rebuilt after its destruction by an earthquake in 1960. Inland and to the south of Agadir are the Souss and the Anti-Atlas, easy-going regions whose Tashelhaït (Chleuh) Berber populations share the distinction of having together cornered the country’s grocery trade. Taroudant, capital of the wide and fertile Souss valley, has massive walls, animated souks and good hotels. Further south, into the Anti-Atlas mountains, Tafraoute and its valley are even more compelling – the stone-built villages and villas set amid a stunning landscape of pink granite and vast rock formations. On the coast north of Agadir is a series of less developed beaches, including Taghazout, Morocco’s number-one surfing resort. A short way inland is Paradise Valley, a beautiful and exotic palm gorge, from which a mountain road trails up to the seasonal waterfalls of Immouzer des Ida Outanane. To the south of Agadir, the beaches are scarcely developed, ranging from solitary campsites at Sidi Rbat – one of Morocco’s best locations for birdwatching – and Sidi Moussa d’Aglou, down to the old port of Sidi Ifni – only relinquished by Spain in 1969 and full of splendid Art Deco colonial architecture.