Ericeira Travel Guide

Ericeira sits high on a rocky ledge above a string of golden beaches, one of the few natural harbors between Cascais and Peniche. In the nineteenth century, its fishing boats sailed as far as Scotland and Brazil, carrying salt fish and returning with whisky and exotic goods. A century later, the town made history for a very different reason: in 1910, Portugal’s last king, Dom Manuel II, slipped out of Ericeira’s harbor into exile as the monarchy collapsed.

Today, the town is better known for surfing than for royal dramas. The Atlantic here produces some of Europe’s most consistent waves, drawing everyone from seasoned pros to barefoot beginners. Beyond the surf, Ericeira keeps a relaxed small-town feel, with cobbled streets, seafood restaurants, and sunset views that remind you the ocean is always the star.

Where is Ericeira?

Ericeira sits on Portugal’s Atlantic coast, about 50 km northwest of Lisbon, between Cascais and Peniche. Perched on cliffs above a string of sandy beaches, it is close enough for a day trip yet far enough to feel like a true seaside town.

Often ranked among the best places to visit in Portugal, Ericeira is a highlight on many coastal Portugal itineraries. From here, you can explore the surf breaks that earned it World Surfing Reserve status, take a short drive inland to the historic palace at Mafra, or head south to Lisbon for a city-and-sea combination.

How to get around Ericeira

Ericeira is compact, with most of the town center walkable, but beaches stretch out along the coast, so you’ll likely mix walking with short drives or rides.

• Walking: The best way to explore the old town. Cobbled streets lead to viewpoints, squares, and seafood restaurants, all within a few minutes on foot. Bring comfortable shoes, as some streets are steep and uneven.
• Car: Handy if you want to beach-hop along the coast or take a trip inland to Mafra. Parking in the center can be difficult in summer, but there are larger car parks on the edges of town.
• Taxi and ride-hailing: Local taxis are available, and ride-hailing apps like Bolt work from Lisbon to Ericeira. Good for short trips between beaches if you do not want to deal with parking.
• Bike: Coastal roads and cliff paths make cycling scenic, though some stretches are hilly and exposed. Rental shops in town offer regular bikes and e-bikes, which are useful if you plan to cover longer distances between beaches.

How long to spend in Ericeira?

If you’re wondering how many days in Ericeira are enough, one full day will give you a good taste. You can stroll the old town, try fresh seafood by the harbor, and spend the afternoon on the sand at Praia dos Pescadores or Ribeira d’Ilhas. Stay for sunset at Praia do Sul, and you’ll see why people linger.

Two or three days make a better pace. That way, you can balance time in town with exploring the beaches that spread along the coast, from family-friendly Foz do Lizandro to the world-class surf breaks at Coxos. An extra day also lets you add in a short trip inland to the Mafra Palace or simply slow down and enjoy Ericeira’s laid-back rhythm. At night, when the day-trippers head home, the town feels more local, with quiet lanes and ocean air drifting through the streets.

Where to stay in Ericeira

Ericeira has a mix of boutique hotels, surf lodges, and family-run guesthouses, many with ocean views or within walking distance of the old town. Here’s where to base yourself depending on how you like to travel.

• First-time visitors: Town center. Stay right in the middle of Ericeira if you want cobbled streets, seafood restaurants, and the harbor just outside your door. You’ll be steps from the main square and within walking distance of Praia dos Pescadores. Parking can be tight, but you won’t need a car to enjoy the essentials.
• For couples: Cliffside retreats. Small hotels and guesthouses on the cliffs above Praia do Sul or Praia do Norte offer a quieter setting and dramatic sunset views. Expect cozy rooms, terraces that open onto the Atlantic, and a more romantic atmosphere than the busy town center.
• For families: Foz do Lizandro area. Just south of town, this beach has calmer waves, wide sandy stretches, and cafés right by the water, making it ideal if you’re exploring Portugal with kids. Guesthouses and apartments here give you more space, easier parking, and quick beach access while still being a short drive from town.
• For surfers: Ribeira d’Ilhas and Coxos. These world-famous breaks are dotted with surf lodges, hostels, and apartments that cater to wave chasers. You’ll be able to roll out of bed and into the water, meet other surfers over communal dinners, and often join lessons or guiding trips run by your hosts. Great if your trip is built around the surf rather than the town.
• For exploring the region: Countryside stays. Rural quintas and boutique lodgings sit just outside Ericeira, surrounded by rolling hills. These are perfect bases if you want peace and space while staying close to both the beaches and nearby sights like Mafra Palace.

What to do in Ericeira

Ericeira is one of those towns that rewards both wanderers and wave-chasers. It’s got history in its old town lanes, a legendary food scene fueled by the sea, and a rugged coastline where the Atlantic never sits still. Here are the best things to do in Ericeira if you want more than a quick beach stop.

#1 Get lost in the old town

Start in the heart of Ericeira, where narrow cobbled alleys curve around whitewashed houses edged in blue. The streets climb and dip, often ending in sudden sea views. Praça da República, the main square, is always buzzing: locals linger over coffee, kids chase each other past tiled chapels, and buskers set up in the shade.

Keep an eye out for details like wrought-iron balconies strung with fishing nets or azulejo panels showing saints who once guarded sailors. The best time to explore is in the early morning, before the cafés fill and the day’s surf traffic arrives.

#2 Watch the pros at Ribeira d’Ilhas

Even if you’ve never stood on a surfboard, Ribeira d’Ilhas is worth the short trip north of town. This wide bay is one of the anchors of the Ericeira World Surfing Reserve, the first such reserve in Europe. International competitions are held here, and on a good swell, dozens of surfers paddle out, dropping into long, peeling right-hand waves. Grab a seat at the clifftop bar, order a cold Sagres, and you’ll understand why this is considered sacred ground in the surfing world. The scale of the waves here also explains why Ericeira is often mentioned in the same breath as the best beaches in Portugal.

#3 Try surfing for yourself

Ericeira isn’t only for the pros. If you’ve ever thought about learning, this is one of the best places in Europe to start. Local surf schools cater to beginners, usually taking them to Foz do Lizandro or Praia do Sul, where sandy-bottom breaks are more forgiving. Instructors provide all the gear and know the safest conditions, so you only need to bring energy and a sense of humor. A two-hour lesson is enough to stand up on your first wave, and if you stick around for a few days, you’ll improve fast. Surfing here is addictive, and many visitors end up extending their trip.

#4 Swim and sunbathe at Praia dos Pescadores

At the foot of the old town lies Praia dos Pescadores, the “Fishermen’s Beach,” where the town’s history and holiday appeal come together. Boats once launched here, but today the sheltered bay is a favorite with families thanks to its calm waters. The breakwaters block most of the swell, making it one of the few safe swimming beaches along this stretch of Atlantic coast. From the sand, the white houses of Ericeira rise above in a tight cluster, creating one of the most iconic views of the town. Come late in the afternoon, when the cliffs glow gold and the tide pools shimmer in the fading light.

#5 Feast on seafood straight from the Atlantic

If there’s a single reason to linger in Ericeira, it’s the food. Fishing remains part of daily life, and the town’s marisqueiras (seafood restaurants) make the most of it. Don’t leave without trying grilled sardines, which appear on menus all summer and are best eaten with your hands. Caldeirada, a fishermen’s stew made with the catch of the day, is another staple, as are amêijoas à bulhão pato, clams sautéed in garlic and cilantro. For a splurge, order a platter of percebes, barnacles that look odd but taste intensely of the sea. The trick is to eat slowly, with vinho verde or a crisp white from Bucelas, while watching the harbor.

#6 Walk the cliff path at sunset

North and south of town, trails hug the clifftops, offering some of the best ocean views on Portugal’s west coast. The walk from Praia do Sul towards Praia da Empa is particularly rewarding in the evening. Waves crash far below, seabirds wheel in the updrafts, and every headland seems to catch the changing light. Locals often bring blankets and bottles of wine to watch the sun melt into the horizon. Unlike Lisbon’s river sunsets, here you get the full drama of the Atlantic: endless water, huge skies, and a sense of space that’s hard to beat.

#7 Visit the Chapel of São Sebastião

On the northern edge of town sits this tiny whitewashed chapel, one of Ericeira’s oldest. Built in the 15th century and decorated with azulejo tiles, it’s a reminder of the town’s maritime faith, a place where fishermen’s families once prayed for safe returns. Step outside and you’ll see Ribeira d’Ilhas stretching into the distance, its surf lines rolling in with military precision. It’s a quiet spot to reflect before heading back into the bustle of the old town.

#8 Take a day trip to Mafra Palace

Just 10km inland, Mafra Palace makes a grand counterpoint to Ericeira’s salty simplicity. Built in the 18th century, this enormous complex has more than 1,200 rooms, a basilica topped with twin bell towers, and one of Europe’s most beautiful libraries. The palace was meant to rival Spain’s Escorial, and in scale it nearly does. Guided tours reveal stories of royal extravagance, while the surrounding Tapada Nacional de Mafra nature park offers a chance to spot deer and wild boar. It’s an easy half-day excursion that adds cultural depth to a beach-heavy Ericeira trip.

#9 Taste local sweets in a pastelaria

Ericeira has its sweet traditions, and they’re best sampled with an espresso in one of the pastelarias scattered through town. Look for ouriços, almond cakes shaped like sea urchins, or pão de ló, a soft sponge cake that practically melts in your mouth. You’ll also find excellent pastéis de nata, often served still warm from the oven. Grabbing a bag of sweets to take down to the beach is practically a ritual here.

#10 Explore beyond Ericeira’s coastline

While the town itself has plenty to offer, its location makes it easy to combine with nearby highlights. Drive north to Peniche for more surf and a ferry trip to the Berlengas Islands nature reserve. Head south to Sintra for fairy-tale palaces and wooded hills, or to Praia da Adraga for one of the most dramatic wild beaches in the Lisbon region. With a car, you can build day trips that balance Ericeira’s relaxed pace with some of central Portugal’s biggest cultural and natural attractions.

Weather in Ericeira

Ericeira has a classic Atlantic coastal climate, shaped by the ocean rather than inland heat. Summers are warm but tempered by sea breezes, winters are milder and wetter, and the town avoids the temperature extremes you find in Portugal’s interior. Average temperatures hover around 54°F (12°C) in January and rise to 77°F (25°C) in August. The Atlantic keeps things cooler than Lisbon in summer and warmer in winter, though fog and wind are common companions.

Because of this balance, Ericeira feels pleasant almost year-round, and for many travelers it represents the best time to visit Portugal in general, especially if you prefer a cooler, more authentic coastal experience than the hotter southern resorts. Surfers often plan trips for autumn and winter when the waves are at their best, while casual visitors tend to favor spring and summer for beach days, swimming, and long walks along the cliffs.

• Spring (March to May): By March, daytime highs average 64°F (18°C), warming to around 72°F (22°C) in May. Rain eases off, and the cliffs above the beaches bloom with wildflowers. This is one of the best seasons for hiking the coastal paths and enjoying town life without the peak-season bustle. Surf is still strong, particularly in March and April, offering a good mix of culture and outdoor adventure.
• Summer (June to August): Summer is when Ericeira joins the ranks of the best beaches in Portugal. Average highs sit around 75°F (24°C) in June and reach 77°F-79°F (25°C-26°C) in July and August, but ocean breezes keep the air comfortable. Sea temperatures hover between 64°F-68°F (18°C-20°C), refreshing after a day in the sun. Surf conditions are mellow, making it ideal for beginners. Expect lively sands at Praia dos Pescadores and Foz do Lizandro, late-evening cliffside sunsets, and higher accommodation prices, especially in August.
• Autumn (September to November): Autumn feels like an extended summer. September stays warm with highs of 75°F (24°C), and October still lingers in the upper 60s°F (19°C-21°C). By November, averages drop to 61°F (16°C), with cooler nights. The beaches grow quiet, the surf picks up again, and the sunsets turn dramatic. This period is perfect if you want fewer crowds but still warm weather and reliable waves.
• Winter (December to February): Mild winters make Ericeira attractive for a different type of traveler. Daytime highs average 57°F (14°C), nights hover around 48°F (9°C), and rain is most frequent in December and January. Atlantic storms create some of the biggest swells of the year, drawing expert surfers to Ribeira d’Ilhas and Coxos. For non-surfers, this is the time to enjoy empty cobbled streets, lower hotel rates, and cozy seafood dinners while watching the waves crash against the cliffs.

Where to eat in Ericeira

Ericeira’s dining scene is shaped by the Atlantic. This is one of Portugal’s seafood capitals, where fishermen still haul their catch to shore and restaurants put it straight on the grill. Expect platters of shellfish, octopus stews, charcoal-grilled sardines in summer, and the rich sweets that Portugal’s convents made famous. Most places are small and family-run, though in recent years a few modern cafés and surf-inspired eateries have added variety to the mix.

Must-try dishes

• Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato: Clams cooked with garlic, olive oil, coriander, and white wine: simple, fragrant, and best mopped up with fresh bread.
• Polvo à Lagareiro: Octopus roasted with olive oil and potatoes until crisp on the outside and tender within. A classic of central Portugal’s coast.
• Arroz de marisco: A rich seafood rice, brimming with crab, prawns, clams, and mussels, cooked in a tomato broth. Often served for two.
• Sardinhas assadas: Grilled sardines are a summer staple, usually served with boiled potatoes, salad, and a drizzle of olive oil.
• Travesseiros de Ericeira: A sweet puff pastry filled with almond and egg cream, a local version of the famous convent pastries Portugal is known for.

Top restaurants and cafés

• Mar d’Areia: a long-standing favorite near the harbor, serving fresh daily catch and generous seafood platters.
• Tik Tapas: modern petiscos (small plates) with a regional twist, good for sharing and pairing with local wines.
• Mar à Vista: traditional seafood restaurant with ocean views, known for its grilled fish and arroz de marisco.
• GiG – Green is Good: a surfer-friendly café with smoothie bowls, salads, and vegetarian options.
• Sunset Bamboo Bar: laid-back spot above Praia do Sul, ideal for sundowners and snacks with ocean views.

Trips and tours to Ericeira

Here are some unique experiences we can arrange for your tailor-made Ericeira trip: all private, flexible, and designed by our local travel experts.

• Ericeira history and walking tour: Stroll through the cobbled streets of the old town with a local guide, stopping at hidden chapels, tiled houses, and viewpoints over the Atlantic. Hear stories about the royal escape of Dom Manuel II and how Ericeira evolved from a fishing port into one of Portugal’s most charming seaside towns. Finish with local pastries by the harbor.
• Seafood and market tour: Begin at the village market to watch fishermen bring in the day’s catch. Then join a cooking session or enjoy a tasting menu in a traditional tasca. Expect grilled sardines, octopus rice, and amêijoas à Bulhão Pato paired with vinho verde. A must for food lovers seeking authentic coastal flavors.
• Surfing experience on the World Surfing Reserve: Take a private surf lesson at Ribeira d’Ilhas or Foz do Lizandro, part of Europe’s only World Surfing Reserve. Lessons are tailored to all levels and include wetsuits, boards, and insider knowledge of the surf breaks. A chance to ride the waves at one of the best beaches in Portugal for surfing.
• Family-friendly coastal adventure: Perfect if you’re exploring Portugal with kids. Includes a cliff-top walk, tidepooling to spot crabs and starfish, and relaxed beach time with boogie boards or sandcastle building. The day wraps up with homemade ice cream in the town square.
• Sintra and Mafra day trip from Ericeira: Visit two UNESCO treasures in one day. Explore the vast Mafra Palace and its remarkable library, then head to Sintra to wander through its colorful palaces and gardens. Return to Ericeira in time for a sunset seafood dinner overlooking the Atlantic.