A centre of sandalwood-carving, silk and incense production, and dotted with palaces and gardens, Mysore (officially Mysuru) is one of south India’s more appealing cities. This cultural capital remains a charming, old-fashioned place, changed by neither an IT boom nor its now well-established status as a top international yoga destination.
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The evocative, if dilapidated, pre-Independence buildings lining market areas such as Ashoka Road and Sayaji Rao Road lend an air of faded grandeur to a busy centre that teems with vibrant street life.
That said, the erstwhile capital of the Wadiyar rajas can be underwhelming at first: upon stumbling off a bus or train you’re not so much embraced by the scent of jasmine blossoms or gentle wafts of sandalwood as smacked by a cacophony of tooting, careening buses, bullock carts, and tongas.
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Mysore Palace in Mysore, Karnataka state in India © Shutterstock
It’s especially magnificent on Sunday nights and during festivals, when it is illuminated by nearly 100,000 light bulbs. The palace was completed in 1912 for the 24th Wadiyar raja, on the site of the old wooden palace that had been destroyed by fire in 1897.
In 1998, after a lengthy judicial tussle, the courts decided in favour of formally placing the main palace in the hands of the Karnataka state government but the royal family, who still hold a claim, have lodged an appeal, which is ongoing.
Twelve temples surround the palace, some of them of much earlier origin.
Most of the “contemporary” art in the collection dates from the 1930s, when a revival of Indian painting was spearheaded by E.B. Havell and the Tagore brothers, Rabindranath and Gaganendranath, in Bengal.
Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery in the centre of Mysore city in India © Shutterstock
The zoo boasts all the usual big mammals, including leopards and tigers, and there are also many species of bird and reptile to be admired, though some of their cages do not make viewing the animals easy.
It’s a pleasant, easy bus trip to the top; the walk down takes about thirty minutes. Take drinking water, especially in the middle of the day – the walk isn’t very demanding, but by the end of it, after more than a thousand steps, your legs are likely to be a bit wobbly.
Inside the twelfth-century temple, which is open to non-Hindus, is a solid gold Chamundi figure. Outside, in the courtyard, stands a fearsome, if gaily coloured, statue of Mahishasura.
The surrounding neighbourhood has in recent years turned into a bustling expat haven, filled with cafés, guesthouses, restaurants and internet cafés. The institute doesn’t offer drop-in classes; students must register for a minimum of one month, and book at least two months in advance.
There are several other centres clustered around Gokulam, including Bharath Shetty’s popular IndeaYoga which offers early morning courses of between two and eight weeks’ duration, and Yoga Bharata, who welcome drop-ins and offer courses of one to four weeks Some 3 km south of town, Mysore Mandala Yogashala, is a self contained retreat, offering excellent instruction, an organic café, well-tended garden, cultural events and drop-in classes.
© Shutterstock
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Residential Museum in the Mysore Palace in Mysore City, Karnataka, India © Shutterstock
Visiting Mysore during the winter months allows you to explore the city's attractions, such as the Mysore Palace, Brindavan Gardens, Chamundi Hill, and the Mysore Zoo, without the discomfort of extreme heat or heavy rainfall. The city also hosts the grand Mysore Dasara festival, a 10-day celebration held in October, which showcases cultural performances, processions, and the illumination of the palace.
It's important to note that Mysore experiences a hot summer season from April to June, with temperatures reaching up to 40°C (104°F) and high humidity. The monsoon season, from July to September, brings heavy rainfall to the region. While some people may still find these seasons suitable for travel, the weather conditions can be challenging for outdoor activities and sightseeing.
Find out more about the best time to visit India.
Lakshmiramana Swamy Temple in Mysore city in India © Shutterstock
It also gives you time to make a stop at the Mysore Zoo, wander through the bustling Devaraja Market, and spend an evening visiting the enchanting Brindavan Gardens and witnessing its captivating musical fountains.
If you want to extend your stay, days four and five could be spent seeing the impressive, Gothic-style St Philomena's Cathedral, a leisurely stroll around Karanji Lake, and a peek in the Jaganmohan Palace and Art Gallery.
The Hampi Express Goes daily via Bengaluru to Hosapete There are 2–5 daily express services to Hassan, of which the Talguppa Intercity Express is the fastest.
The Private stand is about 1 km northwest of here and a host of agents there can make bookings for private buses.
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written by Andy Turner
updated 9.06.2023
