Pretty much anything and everything of Omani provenance can be found for sale in Muttrah Souk, including vast quantities of frankincense and bukhoor, herbs, halwa, spices and crushed rose petals and rose water from Jebel Akdhar, alongside traditional perfumes, pashminas and Omani caps, robes and turbans. Many shops also sell old Bedu silver jewellery and khanjars, including museum-quality pieces which retail for hundreds of dollars alongside pieces of “Omani silver” (which might mean anything from antique jewellery and Maria Theresa dollars through to worthless modern junk) heaped up in tubs and sold by weight. The Gold Souk area is packed with shops selling gold and silver jewellery in a range of Arabian and European designs.

It’s difficult to generalize about prices, although for more workaday items you’re likely to pay significantly more here than in less touristed parts of the city. A tub of bukhoor, for example, which might be found in local supermarkets for less than a rial, usually goes for around 2.5–3.5 OR, while some rogue traders might try to sell you an equivalent for as much as 10 OR. It goes without saying that it’s best to shop around, while virtually all shop-owners are amenable to bargaining.

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